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Barbarian Days
- A Surfing Life
- Narrado por: William Finnegan
- Duración: 18 h y 8 m
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Resumen del Editor
Pulitzer Prize, Biography, 2016
A deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer by the acclaimed New Yorker writer.
Barbarian Days is William Finnegan's memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life.
Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter.
Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses - off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the listener in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu even while his closest friend was a Hawaiian surfer. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly - he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay on Maui - is served up with rueful humor. He and a buddy, their knapsacks crammed with reef charts, bushwhack through Polynesia. They discover, while camping on an uninhabited island in Fiji, one of the world's greatest waves.
As Finnegan's travels take him ever farther afield, he becomes an improbable anthropologist: unpicking the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissecting the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, navigating the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying listeners with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity.
Featured Article: The top 100 memoirs of all time
All genres considered, the memoir is among the most difficult and complex for a writer to pull off. After all, giving voice to your own lived experience and recounting deeply painful or uncomfortable memories in a way that still engages and entertains is a remarkable feat. These autobiographies, often narrated by the authors themselves, shine with raw, unfiltered emotion sure to resonate with any listener. But don't just take our word for it—queue up any one of these listens, and you'll hear exactly what we mean.
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General
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Narración:
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Historia
What does it take to be one of the world's best high-altitude mountain climbers? A lot of fundraising; traveling in some of the world's most dangerous countries; enduring cold bivouacs, searing lungs, and a cloudy mind when you can least afford one. It means learning the hard lessons the mountains teach. Steve House built his reputation on ascents throughout the Alps, Canada, Alaska, the Karakoram, and the Himalaya that have expanded possibilities of style, speed, and difficulty.
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A life-changing book
- De barbudo en 05-02-18
De: Steve House, y otros
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Captain Phil Harris
- The Legendary Crab Fisherman, Our Hero, Our Dad
- De: Josh Harris, Jake Harris, Steve Springer, y otros
- Narrado por: Pete Larkin
- Duración: 6 h y 39 m
- Versión completa
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Prior to his untimely death, in 2010, Captain Phil Harris was a star of Discovery Channel's Deadliest Catch, the hit show that follows the exhilarating lives of Alaskan crab fishermen as they brave the vicious Bering Sea. He led his crew through hurricane-force winds and four-story-high waves, hauling in millions of pounds of crab and raking in millions of dollars. Phil worked hard, but he played even harder....
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Almost cried again!
- De The Girls en 09-12-16
De: Josh Harris, y otros
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Running with Raven
- The Amazing Story of One Man, His Passion, and the Community He Inspired
- De: Laura Lee Huttenbach
- Narrado por: Allyson Ryan
- Duración: 6 h y 49 m
- Versión completa
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Raven Kraft has changed the lives of thousands who have run with him - many of them hundreds of times. From all 50 states and dozens of countries, across all age groups and backgrounds, they come to run with Raven, and in the process find friendship, inspiration - and a nickname. Among them is author Laura Lee "White Lightning" Huttenbach, who has logged over 1,000 miles of Raven Runs. Here she explores the stories of dozens of others about why they started running with Raven - and why they keep coming back.
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Wonderful
- De ChargingDC en 02-14-24
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The Age of Daredevils
- De: Michael Clarkson
- Narrado por: Malcolm Hillgartner
- Duración: 9 h y 42 m
- Versión completa
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By turns a family drama and an action-adventure story, The Age of Daredevils chronicles the lives of the men and women who devoted themselves to the extraordinary sport of jumping over Niagara Falls in a barrel - a death-defying gamble that proved a powerful temptation to a hardy few. Internationally known in the 1920s and '30s for their barrel-jumping exploits, the Hills were a father-son team of daredevils who also rescued dozens of misguided thrill seekers and accident victims who followed them into the river.
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Interesting
- De Always Honest en 10-10-16
De: Michael Clarkson
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Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell
- A True Story of Violence, Corruption, and the Soul of Surfing
- De: Chas Smith, Joan Jett - foreword
- Narrado por: Chas Smith
- Duración: 7 h y 12 m
- Versión completa
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Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell is surfer and former war reporter Chas Smith's wild and unflinching look at the high-stakes world of surfing on Oahu's North Shore - a riveting, often humorous, account of beauty, greed, danger, and crime. For two months every winter, when Pacific storms make landfall, swarms of mainlanders, Brazilians, Australians, and Europeans flock to Oahu's paradisiacal North Shore for surfing's Triple Crown competition. Smith reveals how this influx transforms a sleepy strip of coast into a lawless, violent, drug-addled, and adrenaline-soaked mecca.
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Chas Smith is a jerk, but he writes well
- De Kevin Degnan en 12-15-22
De: Chas Smith, y otros
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Hemingway's Boat
- Everything He Loved in Life, and Lost, 1934 - 1961
- De: Paul Hendrickson
- Narrado por: Jonathan Davis
- Duración: 22 h y 2 m
- Versión completa
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An award-winning historian and author, Paul Hendrickson here turns his attention to one of America’s most cherished literary icons, Ernest Hemingway. Drawing on previously unpublished material, Hendrickson focuses on Hemingway’s life in its twilight, just prior to his suicide, and the seemingly singular constant in the man’s life: his boat, Pilar. On this vessel, Hemingway would entertain and travel, but it would also be the scene of some of his greatest tragedies.
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A Hemingway biography for the 21st Century
- De George en 09-16-14
De: Paul Hendrickson
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To Shake the Sleeping Self
- A Journey from Oregon to Patagonia, and a Quest for a Life with No Regret
- De: Jedidiah Jenkins
- Narrado por: Jedidiah Jenkins
- Duración: 12 h y 13 m
- Versión completa
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On the eve of turning 30, terrified of being funneled into a life he didn’t choose, Jedidiah Jenkins quit his dream job and spent 16 months cycling from Oregon to Patagonia. He chronicled the trip on Instagram, where his photos and reflections drew hundreds of thousands of followers, all gathered around the question: What makes a life worth living? In this unflinchingly honest memoir, Jed narrates his adventure - the people and places he encountered on his way to the bottom of the world - as well as the internal journey that started it all.
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Different that I expected
- De Sabrina en 02-21-20
De: Jedidiah Jenkins
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Making Mavericks
- The Memoir of a Surfing Legend
- De: Frosty Hesson, Ian Spiegelman
- Narrado por: Gary Dikeos
- Duración: 7 h y 45 m
- Versión completa
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When Richard “Frosty” Hesson was first approached by a young Jay Moriarty in 1990, the skinny kid with a sparkle in his eye only wanted one thing from the icon: His help in becoming a better surfer. Hesson, one of the first to conquer the huge waves off northern California known as Mavericks, recognized that the kid “had a vision.” Jay quickly demonstrated a resolve that reminded Frosty of his younger self, pursuing his goal with a seriousness far beyond his years. His attitude and work ethic earned Frosty’s respect and, eventually, his friendship.
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Worst audiobook I’ve listened to - narrated by a pre-pubescent teenage robot
- De Nick en 04-26-18
De: Frosty Hesson, y otros
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Time Bandit
- Two Brothers, the Bering Sea, and One of the World's Deadliest Jobs
- De: Andy Hillstrand, Johnathan Hillstrand, Malcolm MacPherson
- Narrado por: William Dufris
- Duración: 7 h y 19 m
- Versión completa
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The Time Bandit is the fishing vessel that Andy and Johnathan Hillstrand use to hook the "deadliest catch", Alaskan king crabs and opilio crabs, in the Bering Sea, a dangerous body of water that can steal years from a fisherman's life. In pursuit of their daily catch, the brothers brave ice floes and heaving 60-foot waves, gusting winds of 80 miles per hour, unwieldy and unpredictable half-ton steel crab traps, and an injury rate of almost 100-percent.
There are fewer than 400 fishermen of this kind in the U.S., and early death is a common fate. But the Hillstrand brothers are drawn to the drama and adventure of life on the high seas - this is their world.
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Much Better Then I Had Expected
- De Andrew H. Hochheimer en 09-04-08
De: Andy Hillstrand, y otros
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Crossing the Waters
- Following Jesus Through the Storms, the Fish, the Doubt, and the Seas
- De: Leslie Leyland Fields
- Narrado por: Pamela Klein
- Duración: 6 h y 12 m
- Versión completa
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The Gospels are dramatic and incredibly wet, set in a rich maritime culture on the shores of the Sea of Galilee. Yet we've missed much of this perspective - until now. Leslie Leyland Fields, a seasoned Alaskan fisherwoman, leads us across the waters of time and culture out onto the Sea of Galilee, through a rugged season of commercial fishing with her family in Alaska, and through the waters of the New Testament beside the ragtag fishermen disciples.
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Breath taking!
- De Meg White Haven Hill en 09-13-17
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The Plover
- De: Brian Doyle
- Narrado por: David Drummond
- Duración: 9 h y 15 m
- Versión completa
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Declan O Donnell has sailed out of Oregon and deep into the vast, wild ocean, having had just finally enough of other people and their problems. He will go it alone, he will be his own country, he will be beholden to and beloved of no one. No man is an island, my butt, he thinks. I am that very man.... But the galaxy soon presents him with a string of odd, entertaining, and dangerous passengers, who become companions of every sort and stripe. The Plover is the story of their adventures and misadventures in the immense blue country one of their company calls Pacifica.
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Poetry, the sea and finally story
- De WA islander en 09-12-15
De: Brian Doyle
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Lassoing the Sun
- A Year in America's National Parks
- De: Mark Woods
- Narrado por: Corey M. Snow
- Duración: 9 h y 43 m
- Versión completa
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Many childhood summers, Mark Woods piled into a station wagon with his parents and two sisters and headed to America's national parks. Mark's most vivid childhood memories are set against a backdrop of mountains, woods, and fireflies in places like Redwood, Yosemite, and Grand Canyon national parks. On the eve of turning 50, and a little burned out, Mark decided to reconnect with the great outdoors. He'd spend a year visiting the national parks.
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great narrator, lackluster story, wonderful themes
- De MT en 08-21-18
De: Mark Woods
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Wide-Open World
- How Volunteering Around the Globe Changed One Family's Lives Forever
- De: John Marshall
- Narrado por: John Marshall
- Duración: 12 h y 4 m
- Versión completa
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John Marshall had read about the growth of voluntourism, and frankly, it was the only kind of extended trip he could afford. He'd heard that some peoples' lives were changed by a week of overseas service - what might half a year accomplish for his family? His wife, Traca, was all in favor of it; his kids, especially his 14-year-old daughter, were strongly opposed. Wide-Open World is the totally engaging, bluntly honest story of the Marshall family's life-changing adventure.
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I enjoyed every minute
- De Chris en 05-15-15
De: John Marshall
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Beyond the Mountain
- De: Steve House, Reinhold Messner - foreword
- Narrado por: Steve House
- Duración: 8 h y 56 m
- Versión completa
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General
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Narración:
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Historia
What does it take to be one of the world's best high-altitude mountain climbers? A lot of fundraising; traveling in some of the world's most dangerous countries; enduring cold bivouacs, searing lungs, and a cloudy mind when you can least afford one. It means learning the hard lessons the mountains teach. Steve House built his reputation on ascents throughout the Alps, Canada, Alaska, the Karakoram, and the Himalaya that have expanded possibilities of style, speed, and difficulty.
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A life-changing book
- De barbudo en 05-02-18
De: Steve House, y otros
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Climbing with Mollie
- De: William Finnegan
- Narrado por: William Finnegan
- Duración: 2 h y 16 m
- Grabación Original
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General
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Narración:
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Historia
2016 Pulitzer Prize-winning memoirist of Barbarian Days William Finnegan had devoted his days to chasing waves as a lifelong surfer. When his adolescent daughter, Mollie, proves to be a natural-born climber, Finnegan follows his newfound passion toward rock climbing. It’s an arduous apprenticeship, and it turns the parent-child dynamic on its head, as Mollie slips into the role of coach and mentor, while her father has to push his limits to keep pace.
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I would Like a New Dad, Please and Thank You
- De B.A. Wilson en 11-02-19
De: William Finnegan
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Bad Karma
- The True Story of a Mexico Trip from Hell
- De: Paul Wilson
- Narrado por: Joe Zieja
- Duración: 6 h y 14 m
- Versión completa
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General
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Narración:
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Historia
In the summer of 1978, 21-year-old Paul Wilson jumps at the chance to join two local icons on a dream surf trip to mainland Mexico, unaware their ultimate destination lies in the heart of the drug cartel country. Having no earthly idea of where he’ll get the money to pay his share and determined to prove his mettle, he does the only thing he can think of: He robs a supermarket.
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Incredible
- De Ed Leon AKA Perro en 05-15-21
De: Paul Wilson
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Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell
- A True Story of Violence, Corruption, and the Soul of Surfing
- De: Chas Smith, Joan Jett - foreword
- Narrado por: Chas Smith
- Duración: 7 h y 12 m
- Versión completa
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General
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Narración:
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Historia
Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell is surfer and former war reporter Chas Smith's wild and unflinching look at the high-stakes world of surfing on Oahu's North Shore - a riveting, often humorous, account of beauty, greed, danger, and crime. For two months every winter, when Pacific storms make landfall, swarms of mainlanders, Brazilians, Australians, and Europeans flock to Oahu's paradisiacal North Shore for surfing's Triple Crown competition. Smith reveals how this influx transforms a sleepy strip of coast into a lawless, violent, drug-addled, and adrenaline-soaked mecca.
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Chas Smith is a jerk, but he writes well
- De Kevin Degnan en 12-15-22
De: Chas Smith, y otros
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The History of Surfing
- De: Matt Warshaw
- Narrado por: Paul Boehmer
- Duración: 30 h y 17 m
- Versión completa
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General
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Narración:
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Historia
Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw, a former professional surfer and editor of Surfing magazine, has crafted an unprecedented, definitive history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original.
De: Matt Warshaw
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Waterman
- The Life and Times of Duke Kahanamoku
- De: David Davis
- Narrado por: Aaron Killian
- Duración: 11 h y 13 m
- Versión completa
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General
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Narración:
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Historia
Waterman is the first comprehensive biography of Duke Kahanamoku (1890-1968): swimmer, surfer, Olympic gold medalist, Hawaiian icon, waterman.
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Outstanding
- De Chris en 10-07-18
De: David Davis
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Beyond the Mountain
- De: Steve House, Reinhold Messner - foreword
- Narrado por: Steve House
- Duración: 8 h y 56 m
- Versión completa
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General
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Narración:
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Historia
What does it take to be one of the world's best high-altitude mountain climbers? A lot of fundraising; traveling in some of the world's most dangerous countries; enduring cold bivouacs, searing lungs, and a cloudy mind when you can least afford one. It means learning the hard lessons the mountains teach. Steve House built his reputation on ascents throughout the Alps, Canada, Alaska, the Karakoram, and the Himalaya that have expanded possibilities of style, speed, and difficulty.
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A life-changing book
- De barbudo en 05-02-18
De: Steve House, y otros
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Climbing with Mollie
- De: William Finnegan
- Narrado por: William Finnegan
- Duración: 2 h y 16 m
- Grabación Original
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General
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Narración:
-
Historia
2016 Pulitzer Prize-winning memoirist of Barbarian Days William Finnegan had devoted his days to chasing waves as a lifelong surfer. When his adolescent daughter, Mollie, proves to be a natural-born climber, Finnegan follows his newfound passion toward rock climbing. It’s an arduous apprenticeship, and it turns the parent-child dynamic on its head, as Mollie slips into the role of coach and mentor, while her father has to push his limits to keep pace.
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I would Like a New Dad, Please and Thank You
- De B.A. Wilson en 11-02-19
De: William Finnegan
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Bad Karma
- The True Story of a Mexico Trip from Hell
- De: Paul Wilson
- Narrado por: Joe Zieja
- Duración: 6 h y 14 m
- Versión completa
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General
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Narración:
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Historia
In the summer of 1978, 21-year-old Paul Wilson jumps at the chance to join two local icons on a dream surf trip to mainland Mexico, unaware their ultimate destination lies in the heart of the drug cartel country. Having no earthly idea of where he’ll get the money to pay his share and determined to prove his mettle, he does the only thing he can think of: He robs a supermarket.
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Incredible
- De Ed Leon AKA Perro en 05-15-21
De: Paul Wilson
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Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell
- A True Story of Violence, Corruption, and the Soul of Surfing
- De: Chas Smith, Joan Jett - foreword
- Narrado por: Chas Smith
- Duración: 7 h y 12 m
- Versión completa
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General
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Narración:
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Historia
Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell is surfer and former war reporter Chas Smith's wild and unflinching look at the high-stakes world of surfing on Oahu's North Shore - a riveting, often humorous, account of beauty, greed, danger, and crime. For two months every winter, when Pacific storms make landfall, swarms of mainlanders, Brazilians, Australians, and Europeans flock to Oahu's paradisiacal North Shore for surfing's Triple Crown competition. Smith reveals how this influx transforms a sleepy strip of coast into a lawless, violent, drug-addled, and adrenaline-soaked mecca.
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Chas Smith is a jerk, but he writes well
- De Kevin Degnan en 12-15-22
De: Chas Smith, y otros
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The History of Surfing
- De: Matt Warshaw
- Narrado por: Paul Boehmer
- Duración: 30 h y 17 m
- Versión completa
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General
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Narración:
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Historia
Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw, a former professional surfer and editor of Surfing magazine, has crafted an unprecedented, definitive history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original.
De: Matt Warshaw
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Waterman
- The Life and Times of Duke Kahanamoku
- De: David Davis
- Narrado por: Aaron Killian
- Duración: 11 h y 13 m
- Versión completa
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General
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Narración:
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Historia
Waterman is the first comprehensive biography of Duke Kahanamoku (1890-1968): swimmer, surfer, Olympic gold medalist, Hawaiian icon, waterman.
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Outstanding
- De Chris en 10-07-18
De: David Davis
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In Search of Captain Zero
- A Surfer's Road Trip Beyond the End of the Road
- De: Allan C. Weisbecker
- Narrado por: Joe Barrett
- Duración: 11 h y 25 m
- Versión completa
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Historia
In 1996, Allan Weisbecker sold his home and his possessions, loaded his dog and surfboards into his truck, and set off in search of his longtime friend and surfing companion, Christopher, who had vanished into the depths of Central America. In this rollicking memoir of his quest from Mexico to Costa Rica to unravel the circumstances of Christopher's disappearance, Weisbecker intimately describes the people he befriended, the bandits he evaded, and the waves he caught and lost en route to finding his friend.
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another poser
- De will crow en 02-20-20
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Remember Me Like This
- A Novel
- De: Bret Anthony Johnston
- Narrado por: Mark Bramhall
- Duración: 12 h y 44 m
- Versión completa
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Historia
Four years have passed since Justin Campbell’s disappearance, a tragedy that rocked the small town of Southport, Texas. Did he run away? Was he kidnapped? Did he drown in the bay? As the Campbells search for answers, they struggle to hold what’s left of their family together. Then, one afternoon, the impossible happens. The police call to report that Justin has been found only miles away, in the neighboring town, and, most important, he appears to be fine. Though the reunion is a miracle, Justin’s homecoming exposes the deep rifts that have diminished his family.
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Gripping
- De Dana en 05-24-14
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Pipe Dreams
- A Surfer's Journey
- De: Kelly Slater
- Narrado por: Todd Haberkorn
- Duración: 8 h y 26 m
- Versión completa
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Eleven-time world surfing champion, actor, and American heartthrob Kelly Slater tells his inspiring story of triumph over adversity. From Beach Blanket Bingo to Baywatch to Blue Crush, surfing has fascinated people for years, and Kelly Slater is the sport’s hottest star. He has won more world championships than any other competitor, and he continues to change peoples’ minds about what can and can’t be done on a surfboard.
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Not about surfing
- De Deborah McCandless en 07-31-21
De: Kelly Slater
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The Wave
- In Pursuit of the Rogues, Freaks and Giants of the Ocean
- De: Susan Casey
- Narrado por: Kirsten Potter
- Duración: 10 h y 26 m
- Versión completa
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For centuries, mariners have spun tales of gargantuan waves, 100-feet high or taller. Until recently scientists dismissed these stories - waves that high would seem to violate the laws of physics. But in the past few decades, as a startling number of ships vanished and new evidence has emerged, oceanographers realized something scary was brewing in the planet’s waters. They found their proof in February 2000, when a British research vessel was trapped in a vortex of impossibly mammoth waves in the North Sea - including several that approached 100 feet.
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Do the Wave
- De Roy en 03-05-11
De: Susan Casey
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Cocaine + Surfing
- A Sordid History of Surfing's Greatest Love Affair
- De: Chas Smith
- Narrado por: Tom Pile
- Duración: 7 h y 19 m
- Versión completa
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It is likely not terribly surprising that surfers like to party. The 1960-'70s image, bolstered by Tom Wolfe and Big Wednesday, was one of mild outlaws. Tanned boys who refused to grow up, spending their days drinking beer and smoking joints on the beach in between mindless hours in the water. As the surf brands accidentally morphed into a multimillion- then multibillion-dollar industry beginning in the 1980s, however, the derelict portrait began to harm business.
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Narrator is a joke caricature of what the public t
- De Kyle Douglas en 01-13-19
De: Chas Smith
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Caught Inside
- A Surfer’s Year on the California Coast
- De: Daniel Duane
- Narrado por: James Patrick Cronin
- Duración: 8 h y 25 m
- Versión completa
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A wondrous, uproarious, and surprisingly informative account of a year spend surfing, Caught Inside marks the arrival of an exuberant new voice of the outdoors. This remarkable narrative of Daniel Duane’s life on the water is enhanced by good-humored explanations of the physics of wave dynamics, the intricate art of surfboard design, and lyrical, sharp-eyed descriptions of the flora and fauna of the Pacific wilderness.
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The Surfer Memoir that Changed Everything
- De Susie en 11-28-12
De: Daniel Duane
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Let My People Go Surfing
- The Education of a Reluctant Businessman - Including 10 More Years of Business Unusual
- De: Yvon Chouinard, Naomi Klein
- Narrado por: Christopher Grove, Yvon Chouinard
- Duración: 7 h y 59 m
- Versión completa
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In his long-awaited memoir, Yvon Chouinard - legendary climber, businessman, environmentalist, and founder of Patagonia, Inc. - shares the persistence and courage that have gone into being head of one of the most respected and environmentally responsible companies on earth. From his youth as the son of a French Canadian blacksmith to the thrilling, ambitious climbing expeditions that inspired his innovative designs for the sport's equipment.
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Good presentation, though a little preachy
- De Jim Perkins en 05-25-17
De: Yvon Chouinard, y otros
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Kook
- What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave
- De: Peter Heller
- Narrado por: Mike Chamberlain
- Duración: 10 h y 9 m
- Versión completa
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Having resolved to master a big - hollow wave - that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder-in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits.
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Narrator....
- De Jimmy P en 12-14-17
De: Peter Heller
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Liferider
- Heart, Body, Soul, and Life Beyond the Ocean
- De: Laird Hamilton, Julian Borra
- Narrado por: Elijah Allan-Blitz, Julian Borra, Gabrielle Reece
- Duración: 6 h y 32 m
- Versión completa
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Millions of us increasingly seek happiness in fads and self-help books, reaching upward every day toward some enlightened state that we wish to attain. Surfing icon Laird Hamilton is more intent on looking inward and appreciating the brilliant creatures we already are. In Liferider, Laird uses five key pillars - Death & Fear, Heart, Body, Soul, and Everything Is Connected - to illustrate his unique worldview and life practices. This is Laird Hamilton in his own words - raw, honest, and unvarnished - on topics he has rarely explored before.
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Nothing Earth Shattering
- De Deanmc en 03-27-19
De: Laird Hamilton, y otros
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In Deep
- The Collected Surf Writings
- De: Matt George
- Narrado por: Mat George
- Duración: 18 h y 28 m
- Versión completa
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A soulful collection of nearly four decades of surf writing. In Deep transports listeners into the heart of the surfing world’s culture through the eyes and imagination of a master storyteller. George’s personality profiles, perspective essays, and travel accounts achieve a level of frank articulation that, much like the works of Theroux, Krakauer, and Finnegan, reveal as much about the man as it does his subjects. Peak transcendence and quiet reflection, famous beaches and lost islands, competitive triumphs and personal tragedies.
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Fantastic stories well told, but..
- De Bramberg en 07-21-24
De: Matt George
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Force of Nature
- Mind, Body, Soul, and, of Course, Surfing
- De: Laird Hamilton
- Narrado por: Michael Butler Murray
- Duración: 4 h y 53 m
- Versión completa
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Laird Hamilton has been hailed as the world's greatest big-wave surfer. His first book, Force of Nature, allows listeners a rare glimpse inside the unique philosophy that has created his circumstances, and not the other way around. After all, this is a man whose biological father abandoned him shortly after he was born; whose first job was working on a pig farm; who dropped out of school in 11th grade. And then the career decision: surfer.
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okay i guess
- De megan parker en 12-27-22
De: Laird Hamilton
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Ghost Wave
- The Discovery of Cortes Bank and the Biggest Wave on Earth
- De: Chris Dixon
- Narrado por: Chris Dixon
- Duración: 11 h y 23 m
- Versión completa
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Rising from the depths of the North Pacific lies a fabled island, now submerged just 15 feet below the surface of the ocean. Rumors and warnings about Cortes Bank abound, but among big wave surfers, this legendary rock is famous for one simple (and massive) reason: this is the home of the biggest rideable wave on the face of the earth.
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A Surfing Classic of Monster Waves
- De Susie en 01-03-13
De: Chris Dixon
Lo que los oyentes dicen sobre Barbarian Days
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- LA Reader
- 11-16-15
Much more here than surfing
There is so much more in this book than just surfing and description of waves. I am not a surfer, but learned there are as many descriptions of waves as Alaska natives have of snow. Beautifully narrated by the author, it is about life as a youth in the 60s, friendship, travel, taking risks, failures, serendipity and the love of family. One of my all time favorites.
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esto le resultó útil a 14 personas
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- Queen Kristina
- 09-08-15
Fascinating, intense, and delightful author and book
Excellent, exciting book. I'm another non-surfer who nonetheless found the book and the author to be equally fascinating. When I lived in Kauai, I heard surfers talking non-stop about the waves, but they were not nearly as articulate as William Finnegan. Even his actual descriptions of the joy of surfing are interesting, although frequently harrowing.
The complexities of his relationships, examination of male friendship, and sensitivity about his treatment of women and his evolution in that area over the years, as well as his relationship with his parents all add to the depth of the book.
A peek at the cultures and people in the areas around the world where he traveled are insightful and thoughtful. His reading of the book is a delight. He is able to remove ego both in reading and writing, and take us along for quite a ride! I never imagined I would read (well, listen to) a book about surfing, and enjoy it so much.
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esto le resultó útil a 3 personas
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- Tyler
- 06-17-16
Brilliant!!!
One of the greatest books ever written about surfing and what it means to be a surfer.
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esto le resultó útil a 2 personas
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- MattinLIC
- 09-08-17
Good travelogue/surfing tale
He is clearly adventurous, loves surfing, and has a great vocabulary. Elements of the story will resonate with everyone who has ever had a sense of wanderlust.
I think the book could have used a better editor to shorten some of the overly detailed descriptive portions, as well as a glossary for non-surfers.
I was amazed, I will say, at how he had kept his journal so meticulously through the years, and therefore had excellent recall of small details from 20+ years ago.
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- Sqawm
- 04-22-17
4 A Surfer.
Riding the literate waves of Finnegans writing was a journey I did not want to end. There was a time in the first half of the book in which I questioned the selfish surfing search for sensational waves, a bit boring. I was pleasantly rescued by the prose of warmly written vignettes that captured friends, places, and memories of growing up, and aging, in the love of surf.
The reading performance is a soothing lull for a long drive. Thank You Mr Finnegan !!
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- Anonymous User
- 02-21-18
one of the best memoirs
a lovely instruction manual for the examined Life, this memoir not only teaches you the language and imagery of surfing, it's a blue print for digging down and learning what gives a person meaning. it's so not about surfing on the deepest levels, but how to listen to and follow your heart
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- M. I. Se
- 05-17-16
More than Surfing
I don't surf and never will, but this book "in and pens curiosity and appreciation for the love of surfing. The vast majority of these folks do it for no other reason than the fact that they love it. That kind of devotion and spirit is becoming harder and harder to see these days. And exceptional book, and so much more than a narrative about the past time.
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- JD Henderson
- 04-15-17
Grand tale
The author does a good job of telling this long tale. The quality of the recording is diminished by the poorly done re recordings where lines had to be redone. No effort was made to match pacing or volume or tone of voice, so be prepared for these lines to jump out. Otherwise, get ready to dive into the life of a surfer in an unexpected autobiography.
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- Amy Tiffany
- 07-24-17
This book deserved the prize!
Wow! This book does not disappoint. It is one of my all-time favorites. I learned so much and it felt great :-)
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- FMS
- 11-02-16
Good if you are interested in surfing
Well written and interesting but if you have no interest in surfing this will bore you. I have a little interest and no knowledge but I still enjoyed it overall...especially hearing about the traveling.
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