• #32 - Eric Hörst - Injury Care, Nutrition, Raising Climbing Kids, and Mastering Longevity, from the Father of Modern Traini
    Jul 30 2024

    This week on Ageless Athlete, we're joined by a true climbing icon: Eric Hörst. Eric's not just a world-renowned climber, author, and coach—he's a pioneer who revolutionized climbing training and nutrition, inspiring generations of climbers to reach new heights.

    We'll journey back to the 80s, a time when climbing was a niche sport with limited resources. Eric was a trailblazer, experimenting with techniques and philosophies that transformed the way we train. He shared his insights through ground-breaking books and articles, helping climbers everywhere push their limits.

    But Eric's influence extends far beyond the climbing world. He's a devoted father who raised a family of passionate climbers, demonstrating that a love for adventure and the outdoors can be passed down through generations.

    This episode is a treasure trove of wisdom. We'll uncover the secrets to Eric's own approach to aging and staying in the game, his insights on balancing a demanding life with his passion for climbing, and how to make the most of training for longevity and well-being. Listen for:

    Raising a Climbing Family: How to cultivate a love for climbing in your children without pushing them too hard.

    Selecting a Climbing Coach: Eric breaks down the key factors to consider when choosing a climbing coach, whether you're a beginner or a seasoned climber.

    The Best Training Board for You: Eric offers his expert opinion on the pros and cons of various training boards, including the Moon Board, Kilter Board, and his own personal favorite.

    The Power of Saunas and Cold Baths: Eric discusses the benefits of both saunas and cold baths for recovery and injury prevention. He emphasizes that using these modalities effectively requires understanding the nuances and the science behind each approach.

    Intermittent Fasting for Athletes: Eric shares his personal experience with intermittent fasting and explains why he doesn't recommend it for serious athletes.

    Nutrition is Key: Eric emphasizes that a whole food diet is the foundation of any good nutrition plan, but even the most well-designed diet can have some deficiencies. He advocates for regular blood work to track vital markers, especially as we age. He stresses the importance of getting enough protein, essential minerals, and micronutrients to optimize performance, recovery, and overall health.

    Beyond the Grades: Eric shares his perspective on climbing goals and how they evolve with age. He believes that focusing on the experience and joy of climbing, rather than solely on achieving specific grades, is crucial for long-term happiness and fulfillment.

    Eric's Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/eric_horst/?hl=en

    Training For Climbing: https://trainingforclimbing.com/

    PhysiVantage Nutrition:
    https://physivantage.com/


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    1 h y 23 m
  • #31 Thomas Huber - Finding Freedom in the Mountains, Discovering Self, and Embracing the Human Spirit Across Cultures
    Jul 23 2024

    “The mountain always show you how far you can go, and how far you are allowed to go, because biggest success will be always not to reach the summit, to come back alive from expedition.”🏔️ 🌟💪🏾

    Thomas Huber, a legendary alpinist and one half of the iconic Huber brothers is a prolific first ascensionist over of the world’s most formidable big walls, including the Ogre, Cerro Torre, and the elusive Latok 1. He’s also made his mark on Yosemite Valley, where he and his brother Alex became part of the legendary “Stone Monkey” community, pioneering some of the most iconic routes on El Capitan. At almost 60, he’s still strong and was on his way to the Karakoram in Pakistan when we recorded this podcast.

    Listen in for surprising insights into his relationship with risk, his approach to training and recovery, and the profound impact of his experiences on his perspective on life, culture, and the planet. He's also received numerous awards recognizing his accomplishments and his dedication to the sport, including the Piolet d'Or, arguably the biggest honor in alpinism, as well as recognition from the American Alpine Club for his rescue efforts on Cerro Torre. 🏆

    Thomas just wrote this amazing book, Freiheit: Freedom In The Mountains, chronicling his adventures! Buy it with this link and use code HUBERBUAM for a 15% discount! 🙌🏽

    Tune in for:

    • Finding Freedom and Purpose: Thomas shares how he overcame a childhood fear of the mountains, fueled by his father’s climbing accident, to find freedom and purpose in the natural world. 🧗‍♂️🏔️

    • Overcoming Setbacks and Embracing Resilience: Thomas discusses his journey to overcome injuries and setbacks, reminding us that the human spirit is capable of enduring incredible challenges. 💪

    • The Beauty and Power of the Mountains: He also discusses how the experience of climbing has shaped his understanding of the world, both physically and spiritually. 🏔️🙏

    • Embracing Global Perspectives: Thomas describes his incredible adventures and interactions with diverse cultures across the Himalayas, and other corners of the globe, emphasizing the importance of understanding and connection across different backgrounds. 🌎🤝

    References:

    • Thomas Huber's book, Freiheit: https://www.diangelopublications.com/shop/p/freiheit
    • The Huber brothers: https://huberbuam.de/en/home.html



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    1 h y 42 m
  • #30 Matt Samet - Pushing Climbing Performance, While Defying Aging, Career Setbacks, and Addictive Painkillers
    Jul 18 2024

    I've been reading Matt Samet's climbing and adventure writing since I started climbing myself in 2004 and am thrilled to be able to bring Matt to the show! Matt shares his journey of nearly four decades in the climbing world, offering insights into his experiences and the lessons he's learned along the way. From his perspective on climbing journalism to his honest discussion about overcoming addiction, Matt's story is one of courage, passion, and balance. Whether you're a climber or simply someone interested in the mental and physical resilience of athletes, this episode is packed! Hear of:

    • 🏔️ Matt's Longevity in Climbing: Discover how Matt has sustained his climbing prowess for nearly 40 years and what keeps him motivated and passionate about the sport.
    • 📝 Climbing Journalism: Gain insights into the world of outdoor journalism from one of its most respected voices, and understand how storytelling has shaped the climbing community.
    • 🧘‍♂️ Balancing Physical and Mental Health: Learn Matt's strategies for maintaining mental and physical health, essential for anyone looking to achieve longevity in their own athletic pursuits.
    • 💪 Overcoming Personal Battles: Hear Matt's powerful and motivational journey of overcoming addiction and finding a path to recovery, offering hope and inspiration to anyone facing similar challenges.
    • 🤯 Surprising Insights: From mindfulness practices to the importance of community in climbing, discover the surprising lessons that Matt shared during our conversation.

    • Matt Samet's Work in Climbing Journalism:
      • Climbing Magazine
      • Rock and Ice
    • Matt Samet's Book:
      • Death Grip: A Climber's Escape from Benzo Madness

    Follow Matt Samet:

    • Instagram


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    1 h y 29 m
  • #29 Fred Pompermayer - Risking It All, Realizing Boyhood Dreams to Create Iconic Big Wave Art
    Jul 11 2024

    Fred Pompermayer is the visionary behind some of the most breathtaking big wave surfing photos you've ever seen. 🏄‍♂️

    From a landlocked town in Brazil to the world's most iconic waves, Fred's journey is as riveting as the images he captures. In this rare interview, Fred opens up about selling his bicycle at 12 to buy his first surfboard 🚲🏄‍♂️, sneaking university cameras for beach trips 🎓📷, leaving architecture school to chase his California dream 🏠➡️🌴, and transforming a childhood obsession into a thriving career.

    Fred's work has graced 50+ magazine covers, he’s a 7x Big Waves Awards winner 🌟, but beyond the accolades, it's his unique talent and unwavering drive that truly sets him apart.

    Don't miss this opportunity to hear from one of adventure photography's most private and talented artists. 💪

    Fred's References:

    www.Fredpompermayer.com
    https://www.instagram.com/fred_pompermayer/
    https://morrisonhotelgallery.com/collections/sports/products/mavericks

    Ambassador for:
    ANETIK PERFORMANCE
    FLATLINE VAN CO
    VENJENZ
    Part of the SANDISK EXTREME TEAM


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    1 h y 31 m
  • Kris Hampton - Rising from Homelessness and Prison, to Music and Climbing Success
    Jul 4 2024
    "I see something in you. Don't make a fool out of me." 👀💪 This powerful statement from Kris Hampton's probation officer had a profound impact on him, demonstrating the power of belief and accountability.

    From his home amidst the Rockies in Lander, WY, musician, artist, and climber Kris, shares his remarkable journey from a tough upbringing to finding solace and purpose in climbing, all while defying odds and setting impressive climbing goals.

    - Kris's inspiring path to climbing: From juvenile detention to finding a home in the climbing gym, Kris's story is one of resilience, self-discovery, and second chances. 💪
    - Building a career: How Kris leveraged his diverse skill set – from hip-hop to mural painting – to build a successful coaching and training business. 🎨🎤
    - Overcoming physical adversity: Kris shares his experience with a career-threatening shoulder injury and how he used strength training and self-advocacy to not only recover but surpass his previous performance levels. 🤕💪
    - Inspiring stories of older athletes: Learn about Kris's clients who are defying age and proving that with dedication and the right approach, anything is possible. 👴👵💪
    - Balancing life and climbing: Kris offers valuable insights on how to navigate the demands of a busy life, set priorities, and stay motivated to reach your climbing goals. 👨‍👩‍👧‍👦🧗‍♂️

    Connect with Kris:

    Power Company Climbing: https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/
    Kris's Podcast: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/power-company-podcast/id1447779791
    Kris's Book: https://www.amazon.com/Hard-Truth-Simple-Become-Climber/dp/1734103604/
    Breaking Beta Podcast: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/breaking-beta-climbing-training-podcast/id1449349393
    Written in Stone Podcast: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/written-in-stone-a-climbing-history-podcast/id1527606398

    Other Mentions:

    Range by David Epstein: https://www.amazon.com/Range-Why-Generalists-Triumph-Specialized-World/dp/0735211250
    Steve McClure's Autobiography: https://www.amazon.com/Rock-Stories-Autobiography/dp/1784885947
    Revelations by Jerry Moffat: https://www.amazon.com/Revelations-Jerry-Moffatt/dp/0711030690
    Adam Ondra's YouTube Channel:


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    1 h y 39 m
  • # 27 Juliet Starrett - Don’t Skip 'Basecamp', or Build a Durable Body That Can Handle Any Adventure
    Jun 27 2024
    "Forget the "long slow rot" of aging! 🙅‍♀️ Juliet Starrett, a world-champion whitewater rafter turned fitness advocate, is on a mission to empower us all to build durable bodies that can handle life’s adventures – at any age!

    Juliet unpacks her powerful "Base Camp" philosophy: reminding us that even lifelong athletes need to remember to sheerproof the basics. I loved her wisdom on weaving in practices into our daily cycles without expensive gizmos, going to yoga classes, or making time for a fancy gym.

    • You can optimize your sleep and rest WITHOUT a tracker! 😴
    • Why and how to ‘rewild your hips’! 🧘🏼‍♂️
    • Strength and balance training is essential for building an ageless body that can handle any challenge. 💪
    • The "unsung heroes" of longevity like balance and mindful movement. 🤸‍♀️
    Head to the podcast! Link in bio! 👆

    “Built to Move” is an amazing book that you need to have on your bedside, as I do on mine! 📗And you can also enroll for a fun 21 day challenge on the website for by @thereadystate! Do it!

    The Ready State: Juliet's company [https://www.readystate.com/]

    References:

    Books:


    Built to Move: The 10 Essential Movements to a Pain-Free Life by Kelly Starrett and Juliet Starrett [https://www.amazon.com/Built-Move-Essential-Movements-Pain-Free/dp/1684030302]

    Forever Strong: Unleash Your Inner Athlete by Dr. Gabrielle Lyon [https://www.amazon.com/Forever-Strong-Unleash-Inner-Athlete/dp/1476762998]

    Companies and Products:

    Whoop: Wearable fitness tracker [https://www.whoop.com/]

    Aura Ring: Wearable fitness tracker [https://auraring.com/]

    Slack Block: Balance training device [https://www.slackbow.com/]

    Additional Resources:

    Optimize Me Nutrition: Nutritionist on Instagram [https://www.instagram.com/optimizemenutrition/]

    Interesting individuals mentioned in the show!

    Nick Gill: Longtime strength and conditioning consultant for the All Blacks (New Zealand national rugby team)
    Dr. Kirk Parsley: Sleep researcher, expert on supporting Navy SEALs
    Dr. Kristin Holmes: Sleep researcher with Whoop
    Dr. Gabrielle Lyon: Author of "Forever Strong," advocating for strength training for longevity
    Brian Johnson: Tech entrepreneur and human longevity experimenterJimmy Chin: Climber, filmmaker, and photographer [https://www.jimmychin.com/]

    Other References:

    The Blue Zones: Areas with high concentrations of centenarians [https://www.bluezones.com/]
    Atomic Habits by James Clear: Book on habit formation [https://www.amazon.com/Atomic-Habits-Proven-Build-Break/dp/0735211299]
    The Khumbu Icefall: Dangerous section on Mount Everest [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khumbu_Icefall]


    If you've enjoyed the show, please drop a quick review or rating on Spotify or Apple. It helps reach more listeners. I thank you mucho! 💜

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    1 h y 37 m
  • #26 Gary Linden - Exploring and Elevating the Planet’s Biggest Waves to a Global Audience
    Jun 20 2024

    "It's not about being the star that day or catching the biggest wave. It's just, that's the one you remember and you carry all your life." 🏄🏽‍♂️🌊

    What does it take to live a life in pursuit of waves for over 6 decades? Today's guest, Gary Linden, has been doing just that - riding everything from 2-foot rollers to 50-foot behemoths around the globe since the age of 12.

    Gary was one of the first true surfing nomads, traveling to remote regions and living amongst local cultures from Brazil to Japan in search of uncrowded breaks. You'll hear hilarious tales of getting hopelessly lost hiking through dense jungles, camping for months in tiny fishing villages near secluded waves, and the unbridled thrill of exploration in those wide-open days before surf forecasts.

    But Gary's true legacy is as the pioneering face of modern big wave riding. Imagine swells the size of three-story buildings barreling across an oblivion of ocean - that's the canvas where Gary etched his name. Hear how an unwavering mindset of commitment allowed this slight 135-pound waterman to paddle into some of the heaviest slabs on the planet at bomboras like Todos Santos and the bone-crunching barrels of Puerto Escondido. His fearless vision led him to create the original Big Wave World Tour to crown the planet's best big wave chargers.

    Now at 74 years young and still surfing frequently, Gary opens up with raw honesty about the habits, philosophies and convictions that have kept him ageless in pursuit of his one true passion - surfing. With humor and wisdom forged from decades in the lineup, he imparts insights about prioritizing what matters, overcoming setbacks, and leaving a legacy by doing what you love.

    References:

    Gary's Instagram https://www.instagram.com/garylinden/
    Gary Linden Surfboards https://lindensurfboards.com/


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    1 h y 26 m
  • #25 Nick Martinez - Trials and Triumphs of a Modern Day Stone Monkey
    Jun 13 2024

    Nick Martinez has been quietly ticking the hardest and scariest big walls in Yosemite for the last two decades. 🧗‍♂️ From early climbing dreams in Brazil, Nick made his way to Yosemite, finding community with legends like Jim Bridwell, Dean Potter and the Huber brothers, and making a name for himself amongst the Valley titans. 💪

    Despite profound heartbreak of losing loved ones and his own near-fatal BASE jumping accident, Nick found a way to keep climbing, and finding purpose in the mountains he loves. ⛰️

    Get ready for laughs too as Nick, a natural storyteller with a dry wit, recounts wild anecdotes from climbing alongside El Cap legends, epic climbs, close calls, and the unique dirtbag ethos. 🏕️

    Nick's story is a powerful reminder that even amidst the darkest shadows, there is always a path forward. This rare and candid interview is not to be missed.

    Nick’s Instagram

    Nick extends huge thanks to:

    Rigging International
    BlueWater Ropes
    PASOKIN
    Greater Tahoe GripWorks

    📸 credits to:

    https://www.fredpompermayer.com
    https://www.felipesh.com
    https://www.edsonvandeira.com
    Jenning Steger and Kyler Sparks of Patagonia.


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    1 h y 36 m