• Merlin Labron-Johnson Confesses his Love for French Cooking, the Challenges of a No-Menu and How to Spot a Michelin Star Inspector

  • Apr 25 2021
  • Duración: 1 h y 12 m
  • Podcast

Merlin Labron-Johnson Confesses his Love for French Cooking, the Challenges of a No-Menu and How to Spot a Michelin Star Inspector  Por  arte de portada

Merlin Labron-Johnson Confesses his Love for French Cooking, the Challenges of a No-Menu and How to Spot a Michelin Star Inspector

  • Resumen

  • EPISODE SYNOPSIS

    Beautiful Bruton in Somerset is the destination for this week’s The Filling podcast as Anna Barnett

    joins chef and restaurateur Merlin Labron-Johnson in his 15 th Century home to chat about his

    illustrious career beginning with his training in classical French cuisine, to his successful return to

    London and opening 3 restaurants in 5 years (including a Michelin star), and his eventual move to

    Somerset where he now runs The Old Pharmacy, a French style épicerie, and Osip, a nose-to-tail

    restaurant with no menu: a Michelin starred paean to the local produce.

    EPISODE NOTES

    13:00 – 14:30) Here Merlin talks through his chef training abroad in Switzerland, France

    and Belgium confessing his love of and respect for classical French cooking techniques.

    26:00 – 28:35) Seasonality and provenance are very much at the heart of Merlin’s cooking

    and underscore the ethos to his restaurants. Here he details how an emotional connection to the

    food you’re eating makes it taste better.

    29:00 – 32:00) Merlin’s school days are recounted here with the chef confessing that he

    wasn’t particularly well-behaved at school. However, this gave him the opportunity to work in the

    school kitchen and from there a love of cooking was born.

    41:30 – 44:30) Returning from working abroad Merlin had no real plan. So how did taking a

    job to pay the bills result in a Michelin star and launching 3 London restaurants in 5 years?

    51:00 – 55:00) What does a restaurant that offers no menu to its diners look like? Here

    Merlin explains how dishes evolve through seed planting, cultivation, and harvesting: it’s all in the

    seasonality.

    58:50 – 01:02:00) Merlin passionately recounts his ongoing commitment to working for

    refugee charities here cooking for over a thousand displaced people in Lesvos and Calais.

    TOP QUOTES

    “If I’m a little over-excited it’s because of you and that cookie.” Anna

    “Cooking, for me, is about respect for tradition with an eye to innovation.” Merlin

    “As a child I was only interested in getting into trouble and then I found cooking and I became

    obsessed with being a chef, but not just any chef: the best chef in the world.” Merlin

    “Some of the best dairy products, meat and fish I’ve ever had are produced in Somerset.” Merlin

    “Limitations create the greatest identities.” Merlin

    “We just say hi, thank you for coming, and this is what we’re going to cook for you.” Merlin

    “I’m two moths clean of carbs and sugar; and it’s not enjoyable.” Anna


    RESOURCES

    www.osiprestaurant.com

    www.flourishfarmstead.com

    www.helprefugees.org

    www.imadssyriankitchen.co.uk

    www.caffesicilia.it

    www.studionicholson.com

    www.thefelixproject.org


    ABOUT THE GUEST

    Growing up in south Devon, Merlin was always surrounded by organic and sustainable farming. His

    parents – a poetry writer and museum curator – always made sure there were good organic

    vegetables and wholesome food on the table. However, it was a disruptive school-life that found

    him assisting in the school kitchen, rather than attending classes, that really inspired Merlin to

    become a chef. After training extensively in traditional French cooking techniques across Europe,

    Merlin returned to London where he took the job of head chef at ‘Portland’ restaurant; 9 months

    later he was awarded a Michelin star. Two more restaurants followed, ‘The Conduit’ and ‘Clipstone’,

    before Merlin decided to start his own ventures in Bruton, Somerset. Now he run the French style

    épicerie, ‘The Old Pharmacy’, as well as the Michelin starred ‘Opis’ a no-menu restaurant showcasing

    the very best of Somerset produce.

    Instagram@merlin_johnson

    ABOUT THE HOST

    Anna Barnett displayed an enthusiastic interest

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