We are back with Philippe Pourhashemi to discuss this past menswear season. We talk about the shows at Pitti Uomo, Milan, and Paris, from the strange department-store-bound debut of Marine Serre at Pitti Uomo, and an unexpectedly joyful show of Pierre-Louis Mascia, about how bad the Milan shows were this season, the gimmicks at J.W. Anderson, the impotence at Prada, about the grotesque spectacles that Pharrell puts on at Louis Vuitton, and how Japanese designers like Undercover, Sacai, Kolor, and the newcomers like Masu and Taakk continue to make Paris look creative.

We go in depth about Dries Van Noten’s last bow, the show itself, and Van Noten’s legacy. We discuss the spectacle of the Rick Owens show, asking when is spectacle good and when is it not enough? And much, much more.

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Eugene Rabkin speaks with the writer and fashion commentator Derek Guy. Derek has come up in the days of forum culture, has written much about menswear, and has become a reluctant Twitter star. We talk about his style journey, the death of masculine shame about fashion and its unintended consequences, about why so much clothing has by and large has gotten so bad, why the notion of quality and expertise disappeared, why the level of discourse in the glory days of forum culture was so much better than anything you can find on social media today, and about considered consumption and taste in general.

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On this episode we speak with Lorenzo Osti, the son of Massimo Osti, about the life and legacy of his father, the pioneer of modern men’s fashion. We talk about Osti’s design ethos, work methods, and innovations, and how the newly established brand Massimo Osti Studio carries on Osti’s legacy today.

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