Colin Duffy is a 2x Olympian, 3x World Cup winner, and V16 boulderer from Colorado. We talked about puzzles, studying applied math, early competitions, joining Team ABC, getting 70th in his first open event, learning how to lose gracefully, qualifying and competing in Tokyo, how the Olympic scoring has changed, his strategy for Paris, future outdoor rock climbing goals, and much more!

Watch the Video Interview of this episode:

EP 231: Colin Duffy — Uncut Video

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/colin-duffy

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:25) – Puzzles & applied math

(00:06:32) – Mom & dad

(00:07:29) – Early comps & Team ABC

(00:11:22) – Tokyo Olympics

(00:17:15) – Strategy & scoring

(00:20:00) – The format for Paris

(00:25:00) – The World Championships in Switzerland

(00:28:05) – Youth comps

(00:30:41) – Clutch mentality

(00:33:28) – Keeping sport & life separate

(00:35:53) – Gap semester & training in Europe

(00:41:24) – 360 Paddle Dyno

(00:43:52) – Coordination

(00:49:13) – Lead training

(00:52:22) – Comp grades

(00:57:12) – Comp boulders that haunt him

(01:01:02) – Learning how to lose

(01:04:58) – His first open comp

(01:08:06) – Putting on muscle

(01:16:18) – Letting off steam

(01:18:31) – The Grand Hustle V13

(01:20:24) – Bookkeeping V16

(01:22:22) – Outdoor goals

(01:30:47) – Rapid fire questions

(01:47:45) – Wrap up

Emma Hunt is the US speed climbing record holder and will compete in the Paris Olympics. We talked about her intro to speed climbing, how strong you have to be for speed climbing, speed training, how speed shoes compare to other climbing shoes, her mental game and strategy in comps, prejudice against speed in the climbing world, whether the speed route will ever change, why speed is cool, and much more!

Watch the Video Interview of this episode:

EP 230: Emma Hunt — Uncut Video

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/emma-hunt

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:50) – Emma’s intro to climbing & speed

(00:04:08) – “I just wanna go fast.”

(00:06:48) – Keeping the fire lit

(00:09:28) – Beta changes

(00:12:08) – The Start, Dyno, and Top

(00:13:10) – Speed nerds

(00:16:19) – A rock climber first

(00:18:10) – Post-Olympic plans

(00:20:41) – How strong are speed climbers?

(00:23:25) – How speed climbers train

(00:28:42) – Training sections of the speed route

(00:30:14) – Off-the-wall training

(00:31:56) – Her coaches

(00:35:06) – Speed shoes

(00:44:59) – Other sports

(00:46:27) – Rock climbing as a kid

(00:48:27) – What makes Emma so good at speed

(00:49:58) – Pre-race rituals

(00:51:36) – Speed mental game

(00:56:37) – Olympic vs. World Cup format

(00:59:06) – Seeds & sides

(01:00:39) – Strategy

(01:05:01) – Riding waves

(01:11:28) – More about the Olympic format

(01:13:18) – Speed prejudice & Toyko combined format

(01:27:51) – Future Bouldering & Lead comps

(01:29:20) – Speed climbing in the mainstream

(01:35:22) – We celebrate gold

(01:40:39) – Barriers to speed

(01:42:30) – Emma’s fastest time & goals

(01:44:49) – Will the speed route ever change?

(01:51:56) – 50-year-old goals

(01:53:45) – Rapid fire questions

(02:07:51) – Speed is cool

Shauna Coxsey is the most successful competition climber in the UK and the first British woman to climb V12, V13, and V14. We talked about becoming a mom, sitting in and sharing our emotions, human nature and the joy of climbing, inspiration vs. aspiration, motivation vs. commitment, competing in Tokyo, retiring from comps, sending Hazel Grace V14 in terrible conditions, pushing for her V15 goal as a mom, and much more!

Watch the Video Interview of this episode:

EP 229: Shauna Coxsey — Uncut Video

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/shauna-coxsey

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:30) – Frankie

(00:03:58) – Becoming a mom

(00:12:48) – Sit in and share emotions

(00:15:09) – Parenting

(00:20:15) – Support network

(00:22:06) – Shauna’s upbringing

(00:23:10) – Catherine Destivelle

(00:26:16) – The joy of climbing

(00:31:16) – Human nature

(00:34:22) – Her first big competition

(00:37:34) – Being raised by her sister

(00:40:49) – Protecting passion in kids

(00:47:54) – Frankie’s Nany, Arona

(00:52:10) – As honest as her vulnerability allows

(00:55:13) – Inspiration vs. aspiration

(00:58:34) – Motivation vs. commitment

(01:01:38) – Her proudest achievement

(01:04:12) – Hazel Grace 8B+/V14

(01:05:42) – Coming back after pregnancy

(01:12:13) – Wanting to look and feel strong again

(01:17:52) – Hips, butt, & YouTube tips

(01:24:02) – Commentating

(01:28:17) – Tokyo

(01:31:31) – 50 best 7s

(01:34:32) – Pushing for goals as a mom

(01:41:10) – The magic of being here

(01:43:19) – Any 8C/V15 goals?

(01:47:38) – Wrap up