There are a million of them out there, but not all finger strength protocols transfer well to climbing, or are time efficient, or are even possible with the tools we have. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss their favorite protocols, both that they use themselves and in programming for their clients.

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🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Our Finger Strength Resource Page

Eva Lopez | The Best Hangboard Protocol

Breaking Beta | Is This the Best Hangboard Protocol?

Breaking Beta | Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance?

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🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

_________________________

📚 CHAPTERS

(00:00) Intro and Topic Explanation

(20:25) Long Duration Finger Health Hangs

(22:15) Multi-Grip Block Workout

(28:07) Eva Lopez MAW and MED Hangs

(33:27) Too Easy to Fail (2 Hangs per Session)

(38:32) Offset Hangs or Pulls on a Hangboard or Bouldering Wall

(44:07) 6:10 Repeaters

(56:28) 5:55 Three Finger Alternating Hangs

(1:02:12) Three Max Hangs of 6 Seconds Each

(1:08:43) Outro

Be the first to learn about about the new Movement Assessment Tool & Mini-Course!

In Part 2 of this special Q & A episode, Kris fields questions from YOU! Sent in from our YouTube subscribers, training clients, and more, Kris digs into what you want to know when it comes to climbing movement.

This is Part 2 so be sure to check out Part 1, if you haven't already!

_________________________

🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

The Bouldering Process | Flight of the Antelope (V10)

The Process of Dealing with Fear While Bouldering

CONFLICTED | Boards as Movement Assessment Tools

The #1 Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves

Contrast Warm Up (aka Sloth Monkeys) Drill

Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast Drill

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

_________________________

📚 CHAPTERS

(00:00) Intro (03:06) Finding the Best Beta (09:12) Strength vs. Movement (09:55) Heel Hooks vs. Toe Hooks (11:05) The Mystery of Toe Hooks (18:08) How to Coach Toe Hooks (22:07) How to Know You’re Improving (27:56) The Best Level to Learn Movement (28:58) How to Know What to Work On (31:00) How to Improve Pacing and Rhythm (36:37) How to Improve at Scary Moves (41:24) Movement to Focus On Pre-Trip (43:46) False Start Hover Drill (48:35) Movement Work After a Break From Climbing (51:40) We’re Thinking of Movement Backwards (55:11) Outro

You’re scrolling Instagram or YouTube or listening to the newest podcast episodes, and now, just today, you’ve got three new finger strength protocols to try, you learned that your footwork needs overhauling, you’re warming up all wrong, and you have to buy a few new training devices.

And you have to implement it all right now, because, well, you just do. It doesn’t matter that you have no idea if anything has worked – or will work – because the next thing could be THE thing, and you’ve been plateaued and need to level up right now.

You can keep at it. Collect it all.

But...

Read the rest on the blog!

Watch the video on YouTube!

_________________________

🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Taped Tips | The Secret to Hard Moves that Most Climbers Are Missing

Taped Tips | The Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves

Taped Tips | Climb Taller AND Smaller

Our Movement Practice Resource Page

The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become A Better Climber – Use code POD at checkout for 20% off!

Find the Proven Plan That Fits You

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Be the first to learn about about the new Movement Assessment Tool & Mini-Course!

In this special Q & A episode, Kris fields questions from YOU! Sent in from our Patrons, Kris digs into what you want to know when it comes to climbing movement.

This is Part 1 of 2 episodes so be sure to stay tuned for Part 2, coming soon!

Thanks to Patrons Cody Ratterman, Matt, Martin Bertram, Lydia Benitez, and Yoav Pinto for the great questions!

_________________________

🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Our Movement Practice Resource Page

Rethinking Climbing Technique and Movement Skills

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

_________________________

📚 CHAPTERS

(0:00) Intro

(2:02) Movement Principles Specificity

(5:14) Wall Angles

(9:07) Conditions Affect Movement

(13:40) Training with Bad Feet

(19:50) Combined Movement and Energy Systems

(25:02) Movement vs. Strength Questions

(31:48) How to Evaluate Movement

(37:52) Movement Assessment Tool

Short climbers are good at getting scrunchy, and tall climbers are good at climbing extended, right?

Ummm, no. Not always. Actually, not even most of the time.

Believing that, particularly if you’re one of those short or tall climbers, is a trap. I’m going to tell you why, and I’m going to tell you exactly how to make sure you don’t fall into this trap. Or if you’re in it already, how to get out, so that we can all extend our useful range...

Read the rest on the blog!

Watch the video on YouTube!

_________________________

🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Taped Tips | The Secret to Hard Moves that Most Climbers Are Missing

Taped Tips | The Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves

Our Movement Practice Resource Page

Marina Inoue | Does Size Matter?

Applied Body Tension Ebook

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Today we rewind to an episode of Breaking Beta where Kris and Paul dig into a paper that presents and then tests a method for measuring movement skills in climbing:

Climbing performance analysis: A novel tool for the assessment of rock climber's movement performance Authored by Nicola Taylor, Dave Giles, Michaela Panáčková, James Mitchell, Joel B. Chidley, and Nick Draper; published in the International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance in January, 2020.

They’ll attempt to determine whether or not movement skills in climbing can even be measured reliably, and if the proposed system translates to anything useful for everyday climbers and coaches trying to assess movement.

This episode originally aired on July 27, 2022.

____________________

🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Our Movement Practice Resource Page

More Episodes of Breaking Beta: The Science of Climbing Podcast

____________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

____________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

____________________

📚CHAPTERS

(00:00) Notes From Kris

(3:11) Introduction

(6:48) Methods

(15:37) Results and Our Thoughts

(27:37) What Should Come Next?

(34:34) Wrap Up

(39:28) Credits and Theme

Ben Mayforth is a decorated climber well known for dialing in his training regimen. He's a Paraclimbing World Cup multi-medalist. Since 2019, he hasn't missed a silver medal at the Paraclimbing World Championships. Ben has a reputation of being extremely disciplined, but he’s recently loosened some of his self-imposed rules, and we discuss the impacts from that “letting go” in this episode.

Every Body Climbs (EBC) is a collaborative podcast, presented across Plug Tone Audio platforms, bringing you interviews with para and adaptive climbers. These profiles can be heard on The Power Company Podcast and Sends and Suffers. Content about festivals, engagement projects and other modes of community building air on Sends and Suffers, while training and nutrition focused interviews can be heard on The Power Company Podcast. Host, Emily Chen-Newton is a freelance adaptive sports reporter working in both print and broadcast. Living with a chronic medical condition herself, her journalism centers athletes, not their disabilities. When she’s not reporting, she’s rock climbing with her husband and their two cats.

Follow Emily and EBC on:

Instagram

SoundCloud

Theme music sample attribution: Creeper_Ciller78

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🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

More episodes of Every Body Climbs

More episodes of Sends and Suffers

Maureen Beck | Adapting

Justin Salas | Nonsighting

REWIND | Craig DeMartino on Making Hard Decisions and Using Limitations

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Today's episode comes from The Struggle Climbing Show and features our very own coach Nate Drolet in consultation with the show's host Ryan Devlin, who has been working hard towards a goal to climb 13a. They'll talk movement analysis, technique improvement, and more. This is the first of two episodes with Nate on the topic, so be sure to head over to The Struggle to hear the second part!

Check out more episodes of The Struggle Climbing Show.

Follow The Struggle Climbing Show on Instagram.

Get more content on The Struggle's Patreon.

_________________________

🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Our Movement Practice Resource Page

Book a Remote Consultation with Nate

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.