Nathan Williams is obsessed with ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ 9A/V17, and estimates he has spent 100+ days trying it. We talked about getting mentored by Jimmy Webb and Kasia Pietras and sending his first V10 within one year of climbing, why he took a year off, falling in love with ROTS, how to stay psyched after bad days, friction control, climbing with a purpose, gaining legendary finger strength in a few minutes per week, static feats of strength, and much more!

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EP 215: Nathan Williams — Uncut Video!

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nathan-williams

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:50) – Gaming

(00:05:13) – Overview

(00:06:52) – The luckiest intro to climbing

(00:11:12) – His first V10

(00:15:20) – Making the jump to V15/16

(00:17:38) – ‘Sleepwalker’

(00:19:53) – The birth of ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’

(00:21:45) – Getting obsessed

(00:25:31) – What makes a good session

(00:28:02) – Staying psyched after bad days

(00:30:51) – Friction control

(00:34:46) – Bad tactics

(00:39:15) – Feeling strong

(00:41:17) – No regrets

(00:45:27) – ROTS as a board climb

(00:50:34) – Training for ROTS

(00:56:33) – Nathan’s one-arm hang workout

(01:01:51) – One-arm hangs vs. lifting from the ground

(01:05:43) – More finger training

(01:09:04) – Micros and finger anatomy

(01:11:47) – Nathan’s climbing style

(01:24:22) – Static projects

(01:26:01) – Feats of strength

(01:28:08) – Climbing inspiration

(01:29:45) – Excuses and explanations

(01:37:14) – Skin products

(01:41:31) – Why he took a year off

(01:44:34) – Not forcing it

(01:47:38) – Working with a coach

(01:51:22) – Life balance

(01:54:47) – Climbing with a purpose

(01:59:28) – Upcoming goals and plans

(02:02:01) – More ROTS

(02:11:33) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons

Neely Quinn returns to the podcast! We talked about how doing mindset work with Hazel Findlay changed her life, why she decided to become a life coach herself, simple tactics for working through negative emotions and banishing shame, why working on your mindset will make you climb harder, and much more! Neely also gives Steven a life coaching session and helps him find more contentment with his climbing.

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Watch the Video Interview:

EP 214: Neely Quinn — Uncut Video!

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/neely-quinn-returns

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:35) – Neely’s breakfast

(00:02:48) – Jonathan Siegrist’s rest days

(00:04:32) – Overview of our chat

(00:05:47) – How working with Hazel Findlay changed her life

(00:12:09) – The discomfort goal

(00:14:56) – Not sending ‘Tombraider’ 5.13d, and learning how to enjoy climbing again

(00:16:34) – Trying max hard, and feeling ready to fail

(00:21:15) – Pursuing life coaching

(00:22:28) – Self-talk

(00:23:09) – The role of a life coach

(00:24:35) – Mindset tools

(00:28:40) – Email apnea

(00:35:22) – Emotions, shame, and what to do

(00:38:10) – Steven gets a life coaching session

(01:00:07) – Gratitude, self-affirmation, and the list of 3s

(01:06:39) – Becoming a life coach

(01:08:37) – What Neely is still working on

(01:15:29) – Gremlin work

(01:26:45) – Getting out of depression

(01:30:38) – Toil

(01:31:56) – Piano, projecting, and self-hatred

(01:34:07) – Self-esteem and inherent value

(01:35:52) – Respect and envy

(01:38:27) – Our homework

(01:41:30) – A last bit of coaching for Steven

(01:49:26) – Knowing when to pivot

(01:51:02) – Wanting without attachment

(01:53:20) – Where to find Neely

(01:55:37) – What to look for in a mindset coach

(01:57:01) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

Simon Lorenzi is a world-class climber from Belgium and the first person to climb three boulders graded 9A/V17. We talked about lessons from his three hardest boulders, tactics for trying ‘Burden of Dreams’ in -13°C, the projecting bubble, the goal of struggling, dealing with bad weather on ‘Alphane’, facing frustration with optimism, using a book under his kneepad on the FA of ‘Soudain Seul’, dream V18 projects, and much more!

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Watch the Video Interview:

EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Uncut Video!

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/simon-lorenzi

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:15) – How to pronounce Simon

(00:02:56) – Claude Lorenzi

(00:05:37) – Early climbing

(00:08:02) – Discovering his potential

(00:10:12) – Focusing on the details

(00:11:31) – Becoming a 9A/V17 generalist

(00:15:06) – ‘Burden of Dreams’

(00:21:27) – The projecting bubble

(00:25:44) – Simon’s 9A+/V18 goal

(00:28:11) – Precision vs. finger strength

(00:29:17) – External pressure

(00:33:52) – Trying ‘Burden’ in -13 C

(00:36:09) – Optimism

(00:42:48) – Dealing with bad weather on ‘Alphane’

(00:45:07) – Training while projecting ‘Burden’

(00:49:47) – Projecting tactics

(00:51:25) – Lessons from his three 9A’s

(00:54:25) – How ‘Soudain Seul’ got it’s name

(00:59:11) – Kneebar + book tactics

(01:02:40) – His biggest lesson from ‘Soudain Seul’

(01:03:23) – The goal of struggling

(01:04:51) – ‘Big Conviction’, and bonding with his dad

(01:10:01) – Stress from his dad

(01:15:14) – Sport climbing goals

(01:17:31) – Future competition plans

(01:21:44) – How comps and outdoor projects complement each other

(01:26:10) – Training for comps vs. projects

(01:27:46) – Simon’s dream 9A+ project

(01:37:07) – Upcoming competitions

(01:40:40) – Repeating his dad’s 8c/5.14b

(01:42:18) – Support from his dad

(01:45:44) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!