Josh Hadley is a leading flexibility coach in climbing and the face behind the Lattice YouTube Channel. I’ve struggled with stretching routines over the years, and this episode completely changed my flexibility training. In this episode, Josh shares his top 4 stretches for inflexible climbers and introduces key concepts like chasing horizontal, weighted stretching, tempo, contract and relax, reducing friction, best times to stretch, and more. We also covered his recent CARCing experiment and other topics. Enjoy!

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EP 228: Josh Hadley — Uncut Video

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/josh-hadley

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:03:59) – CARCing

(00:10:38) – Unstructured training

(00:12:13) – How Josh became the flexibility guy

(00:17:47) – Bringing critical force testing to Lattice

(00:25:25) – Flexibility assessments

(00:32:14) – Abduction

(00:32:44) – Buy in for flexibility training

(00:41:47) – How often do you need to train flexibility

(00:44:19) – The #1 flexibility exercise for boulderers (pancake)

(00:47:57) – Weighted & PNF stretching

(00:53:36) – Josh’s flexibility progress

(00:59:40) – Morphology limitations

(01:03:11) – Standing Pancake

(01:08:56) – Chasing horizontal

(01:13:43) – Tasking & motivation

(01:16:40) – Pancake stance width

(01:18:11) – Progressing the weight & tempo stretching

(01:24:51) – Do you have to warm up for flexibility training?

(01:27:40) – Pancake protocol

(01:30:06) – How Josh builds a flexibility session

(01:34:11) – Mobility vs. flexibility

(01:39:58) – Calve stretching

(01:46:01) – 4 stretches for inflexible climbers

(01:52:24) – Reducing friction

(01:55:00) – Stretching doesn’t have to look like climbing

(01:56:57) – PNF or contract-relax stretching

(02:00:57) – Best times to stretch

(02:04:41) – Breathing

(02:07:14) – When to switch to maintenance

(02:11:40) – What running does to your flexibility

(02:12:54) – Josh’s climbing & BJJ

(02:19:17) – The impact of flexibility on Josh’s climbing

(02:22:07) – Josh’s final advice

(02:25:32) – YouTube experimenting

(02:27:49) – Wrap up