0:35 Melissa Rose Bernardo shares a 140-year-old article from the archives of JCK Magazine on lab-grown gems.4:25 Rob Bates and Emili Vesilind discuss holiday jewelry sales.9:10 Rob and Emili discuss lab-grown diamond sales and the future of lab-grown.22:06 Emili’s Golden Globe jewelry fashion report.25:40 Emili covers the new year fashion trend “maximalism.”34:05 Rob tells the "Weird Jewelry Story of the Week39:37 Rob interviews diamond analyst Paul Zimnisky about lab-grown diamonds and the future of the industry.

Hosted by: Rob BatesJCK Staff: Melissa Rose Bernardo, Emili VesilindGuest: Paul Zimnisky, Diamond AnalystEngineers: Levi Sharpe, Ed PatenaudeEditor: Jamie BergerProducer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine, paulzimnisky.com

Show Summary

From the Archives

In honor of JCK magazine’s 150th anniversary, Managing Editor Melissa Bernardo dug up an article from the February 1878 issue of The Jewelers Circular and Horological Review, which is what JCK magazine was called at the time. This over 140-year-old news item concerns something we think of as the latest technical innovation: lab-grown gems. This vintage article documents a “highly successful” attempt at producing artificial rubies and sapphires in France that “might perhaps lead to the manufacture of diamonds.” A century ago, JCK covered the prediction that lab-grown diamonds could be on the horizon.

Holiday Sales and Trends

Emili Vesilind reports that jewelry retailers had a solid, strong season, though she reads that traffic was slightly lower in stores, along with a more dramatic rise in online traffic. Rob says that sales went up, but not as much as it did the year before. Hopes were high, and the trends stayed fairly standard rather than having a dramatic rise. Rob and Emili also discuss lab-grown diamonds, and whether their attractive prices or their eco-friendly pitches mark a trend that has staying power.

Golden Globe Trends

Emili observes that the trend that emerged at the Golden Globes was a parade of glamor and maximalism. The Golden Globes marked a break from the past, when simple everyday pieces and “daily gold” had been the most prevalent trends. Now, chunky pieces are entering the scene. Emili also marks a return to ‘70s and ‘80s-style layering, as opposed to the single statement pieces of the more recent past.

Weird Story of the Week

Rob tells the story of a British Reddit user who gets swept up into the trend of New Years’ Eve proposals. The confused fellow who lives with his long-term girlfriend purchases an engagement ring with the intent to propose to a love interest he’s started seeing at work. On New Year’s Eve, he spontaneously proposes to his girlfriend, giving her the ring, and turns to Reddit for legal advice: is it possible to call the whole thing off and return the engagement ring? Tune in for the exciting conclusion!

Interview with Diamond Analyst Paul Zimnisky

Rob interviews Paul Zimnisky about how he got into the business of diamond analysis. They delve into the supply and demand of the diamond business, and their effect on pricing.

Paul has observed demand for diamonds grow for the last four to five years, despite talk of fewer millennials getting married. He sees the incremental increase in supply in 2017 as a contributing factor to the pressure on diamond pricing in the recent past.

Rob gets Paul’s take on how lab-grown diamonds fit into the supply/demand equation for the rest of the diamond market. Paul raises the concern about accurate sourcing of diamonds, and small lab-created diamonds making their way into the natural supply chain. They share their opinions on the future of lab-grown diamonds, and whether the end consumer will differentiate between lab-created and natural. Will they prefer one over the other and why?

Though opinions may differ about the future of the natural and lab-grown diamond industry, Paul reminds listeners that diamonds are luxury items, ones that are often purchased for emotional reasons, and this makes their future harder to predict than items purchased for practical reasons.

March Edition on the Jewelry District, Episode One

In This Episode

In the March installment of JCK‘s new podcast, “The Jewelry District,” you’ll hear JCK senior editor Emili Vesilind talk about major jewelry moments at the Oscars and trends on the Fashion Week runways. News director Rob Bates covers the recent financial and legal troubles of retail-veteran Samuels Jewelers.

You’ll also hear a Weird Story of the Week about a dental assistant-turned-jewel thief! Rob interviews diamond analyst Ben Janowski, who shares an industry insider’s perspective on mined and lab-created diamonds.

Show Notes

1:10 Emili Vesilind discusses big jewelry moments at the Oscars with Rob Bates.

11:05 Emili rounds up the trends she observed during Fashion Week.

17:35 Rob Bates covers the latest news on Samuels Jewelers.

22:55 Rob tells the “Weird Jewelry Story of the Week.”

25:45 Rob interviews Ben Janowski, diamond analyst and president of Janos Consultants, about new trends in diamonds and jewelry

Episode Credits

Host: Rob Bates

JCK Staff: Emili Vesilind

Guest: Ben Janowski, President, Janos Consultants

Engineer and Editor: Levi Sharpe

Producer: Natalie Chomet

Plugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine, janosconsultants.com

Show Recap

Oscar-Winning Jewelry Moments

Emili Vesilind reacts to the big jewelry moments at the Oscars––the SuperBowl for fine jewelry brands. This year, she was dazzled by Lady Gaga who wore the historic Tiffany diamond, which has not been worn since Audrey Hepburn sported it at a Breakfast at Tiffany’s publicity event.

Emili rounds up the JCK editorial team’s Oscar jewelry favorites including Julia Roberts in Cindy Chao; Charlize Theron in Bulgari; and Spike Lee sporting the LOVE/HATE knuckle rings from Do the Right Thing.

Trendspotting at Fashion Week

Emili has seen some key trends emerge in 2019 that carried through to Fashion Week. These include big chains from Oscar de la Renta, IDM, and Tom Ford who created dresses that featured curb chain elements. Large hoop earrings were another recurring theme—some traditional, and others more crumpled in shape. Rob asks Emili how Oscar and Fashion Week looks influence each other and inform jewelry retailer trends. Which trends will fizzle and which will soar?

Reports of Samuels Jewelers and Bank Fraud

Listen for Rob’s coverage of the latest report on Samuels Jewelers. Rob recounts the saga of the 112-store retail chain, which filed for bankruptcy last year, and announced the closing of all its stores just six months after its parent company Gitanjali Gems was charged with bank fraud.

Weird Story of the Week

Rob reveals the weird and unsettling story of a dental hygienist who may have relieved several patients of their jewelry while they were under sedation. The local police chief asserts that, “Although she was using laughing gas, this is no laughing matter.”

Interview with Diamond Analyst Ben Janowski

Rob gets Ben’s insights into lab-grown diamonds. Mr. Janowski was an early adopter who told Rob that manmade diamonds would be the next big thing before Rob heard anyone else talking about it. Ben shares his thoughts on the history of lab-grown and where it’s going. He talks about what the marketing gets wrong and what it gets right in both the new lab-created and traditional diamond market.

In This Episode

In the latest installment of “The Jewelry District,” you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates discuss the gender discrimination and harassment allegations at Signet Jewelers. Victoria covers how watch retailers are embracing the secondhand market.

You’ll also hear a Weird Story of the Week about a jeweler/fan of Elon Musk who has a surprising issue with his Tesla! Rob and Victoria interview gem dealer Joe Menzie about his history in the industry, and gemstone expeditions around the globe.

Show Notes

01:10 Victoria Gomelsky talks about JCK’s history and what she’s found in the 150 years-worth of archives.

02:40 Victoria and Rob Bates talk about the bombshell report on Signet’s treatment of female employees over the years.

07:40 Rob covers the other struggles Signet is having with their retail stores and new marketing strategy.

09:20 Victoria covers watch retailers and their recent embrace of the secondhand market

12:40 Rob tells the “Weird Story of the Week”.

15:55 Victoria and Rob interview Joe Menzie, gem dealer and former president of ICA, about his career in the jewelry industry and the gemstone expeditions he leads

Episode Credits:

Hosts: Rob Bates and Victoria Gomelsky

Guest: Joe Menzie, gemstone dealer

Engineer and Editor: Levi Sharpe

Producer: Natalie Chomet

Plugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine, menzie.com

Show Recap:

Signet’s Alleged History of Gender Discrimination

Victoria and Rob react to the exhaustive New York Times Magazine cover story that details the many alleged incidents of gender discrimination and sexual harassment that took place in Signet Jewelers’ Sterling division over the years. Rob voices his opinion on how the company has responded since the article came out. Victoria underlines the overarching issue of when a company culture breeds this kind of behavior.

Retailers Embrace Secondhand Watch Market

Victoria interviewed Hamilton Powell, founder and CEO of Crown & Caliber about the pre-owned watch market’s increase in popularity. She sees it as a way to hedge against other issues in the marketplace. She also discusses Les Ambassadeurs’ recent partnership with WatchBox – a secondhand watch powerhouse.

Weird Story of the Week

Rob tells the story of Ben Baller who created a $400,000 diamond and ruby ring for Elon Musk. He then gets locked in his own Tesla for 40 minutes. Baller posts a video of the incident to his Instagram feed. Conflict and conspiracy theories ensue.

Interview with Gemstone Dealer Joe Menzie

Victoria and Rob discuss Joe’s storied career and how he ended up in the gemstone industry. Victoria reminisces about the first time she met Joe in Tucson, and his dependable insight into this unique niche of the jewelry world over the years. Joe talks about his trajectory, beginning in social work, to accounting, then finally finding his way to his grandfather’s gemstone dealing trade. He describes how he ended up as the president of the ICA. Joe also details some of his exciting gemstone expeditions, and Victoria recalls her experience at a tanzanite mine.

Bonus Episode of the Jewelry District

In This Episode

In this bonus episode, you'll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates share in some pre-show excitement for JCK Las Vegas with Yancy Weinrich, Senior Vice President at Reed.

Yancy recounts how she got her start in the jewelry business, her memories from her first JCK Las Vegas show, and how much it has grown since. The team remembers what was so wonderful about the old Sands and teases what's new, improved, and exciting for this year's show.

Show Notes

01:00 Yancy explains how she got her start at Reed and in the jewelry industry at large.02:48 Yancy talks about the first JCK show she attended and what she loves about the trade show business.06:25 Yancy and Victoria recall details about the show when it was at the old Sands.07:30 Yancy walks through the decision to move to Mandalay Bay from the Sands and back again.11:03 Victoria and Yancy talk about the Sunday night party at Tao and new restaurants.14:05 Yancy offers her top tips to be prepared during the busy show experience. 15:25 Rob asks Yancy about what's new and different this year.17:20 Rob and Yancy discuss Baselworld and the future of trade shows.19:00 Rob inquires about consumer and influencer interest in the JCK show.21:40 Yancy shares her favorite JCK show memories.

Episode Credits:

Hosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyGuest: Yancy Weinrich, Senior Vice President, ReedEngineer and Editor: Levi SharpeProducer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine, jcklasvegas2019.com

Episode 4: Guest Joe Thompson

In This Episode

In the latest installment of “The Jewelry District,” you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates recap the summer news, including the first Jewelers of America Convention and an inside look at how the JCK 150th Anniversary issue is shaping up.

You’ll also hear Rob and Vic interview Joe Thompson of Hodinkee on how he got his start at JCK in the 1970s, and the memories he has of the people he worked with during that time.

Show Notes

01:00 Rob covers the highlights of the first Jewelers of America Convention.

01:55 A member of the State Department talked about the importance of traceability.

02:31 Rob led a talk on traceability and Blockchain.

08:00 The challenges and future of detection of lab-grown products.

11:02 JP Morgan economist talked about the economy vs. the jewelry and retail industry.

13:58 Victoria speaks on the 150th anniversary issue of JCK, and how people across all different time periods grappled with the same things.

18:20 Rob does the Weird Jewelry Story about doctors who removed a large quantity of jewelry from a patient’s stomach.

21:56 Rob introduces guest Joe Thompson of Hodinkee, who got his start at JCK in the 1970s.

25:30 Joe talks about his early days at JCK and what he found in the archives from that time period.

37:40 Joe describes the different watch revolutions he’s seen over the course of 40 years in the business, including the smartwatch revolution today.

41:15 The watch business used to be the pillar that JCK was built on, and now watch advertising in the industry has declined. Vic asks if Joe sees this as a continuing trend in the watch industry.

Episode Credits

Hosts: Rob Bates and Victoria Gomelsky

Guest: Joe Thompson

Editor: Levi Sharpe

Producer & Engineer: Natalie Chomet

Plugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine, hodinkee.com

Show Recap

The First Jewelers of America Convention

Rob attended the first annual JA Convention and recounts some of the talks that took place, including a sternly toned talk by a woman from the State Department on traceability. People were taken aback by her hard line. Rob led a panel on traceability and Blockchain. It’s something that the outside world is calling for, but it will be a challenge to figure out how to enact. Vic wonders if this will be easier to implement when technology catches up and Blockchain becomes a ubiquitous, household term.

Inside the Anniversary Issue

Vic has been diving into the archives and has seen that the same issues jewelers grapple with today are things the industry struggled with in the 1800s through today, including synthetic stones, how to sell certain stones or watches, survival of retail, etc. Vic reads certain sentences that—if it weren’t for the syntax—if they were from the past or present day. It helps build a feeling of camaraderie with our predecessors.

Weird Story: Hungry for Wealth

Doctors removed 1.6kg of jewelry from a woman’s stomach, worth £53,000. The woman was suffering from abdominal pain and went to the doctor. Baffled doctors in Bengal, India discovered the woman had 69 chains, 80 earrings, 46 coins, 8 lockets, 11 nose rings, 5 anklets, and 1 watch dial in her stomach. The coins likely came from her brother’s store, and the items had disappeared from her family’s home over time, though the family did not suspect anything.

Interview: Joe Thompson

Joe describes Hodinkee, and why the fan site for watches captures the interest of watch connoisseurs out there. Joe talks about his early days at JCK and what he found in the archives from that time period, including articles he wrote from when he got his start. He tells stories about the managing editor in 1977, George Holmes, including a tale about an article he wrote that the interviewee wanted altered. Lesson: never send a copy of the article to the subject before it’s published!

In This Episode This episode of “The Jewelry District” pays tribute to JCK magazine’s 150th anniversary. JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with a panel of JCK writers about fascinating discoveries they made while combing through the vast expanse of the JCK archives. The weird story won’t be from this week—but 1975 instead! Interspersed throughout the episode, you’ll hear the voices of current and past employees as they reflect on their experiences working at this historic publication. You’ll also hear Rob and Victoria interview Bill Furman, former ad manager, who spent 46 years working at JCK. He’ll share how he got there and some amazing memories from along the way.

Show Notes

00:36 Victoria and Rob give an overview of the 150th anniversary issue. 3:10 Victoria kicks off the conversation with a few notable things she learned in her research. 8:40 Rob relates a great quote from Marty Hurwitz of MVI Marketing about his impression of JCK. He also shares the ad that former editor Peggy Jo Donahue answered when she began working at JCK. 10:20 Rob shares a weird story from 1975, “Should You Fire That Hippy?” 12:55 Hedda Schupack talks about her favorite story from working at JCK. 15:50 Victoria introduces the panel of JCK writers and tees up Melissa Bernardo’s story. 16:22 Melissa talks about the amazing covers she found when doing her research, including which eras had the oddest, ugliest, and most beautiful covers and ads. 19:55 Melissa explains how the cover of the 150th anniversary issue was created. 21:15 Emili Vesilind talks about what she discovered while researching the fashion retrospective she authored. 25:35 Ettagale Blauer shares a favorite moment from working at JCK: interviewing Lazare Kaplan. 26:22 Russell Shor talks about his history working at JCK and his journey to India for work. 27:50 Amy Elliott relates her process as she researched her piece on pearls, including what coverage JCK had on Breakfast at Tiffany’s and how it affected the popularity of pearls. 31:20 Brittany Siminitz gives a peek behind the scenes of her epilogue, where she talked to young people in the industry about what the top issues would be in 50 years. 33:45 Mark Smelzer reflects on his favorite experience at JCK. 35:55 Robert Weldon reveals the most important thing he covered while at JCK: East African gemstones. 36:09 Victoria and Rob interview Bill Furman, who worked at JCK for 46 years. Episode Credits Hosts: Rob Bates and Victoria Gomelsky JCK Staff: Melissa Bernardo, Amy Elliott, Brittany Siminitz, Emili Vesilind Guest: Bill Furman JCK Voices: Ettagale Blauer, Hedda Schupak, Russell Shor, Mark Smelzer, Robert Weldon Editor: Levi Sharpe Producer & Engineer: Natalie Chomet Plugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine