Join me in this podcast episode as I share the incredible journey of blending climbing and powerlifting in my life. I'll take you through the highs, lows, and transformative moments that emerged from the unique synergy of these two dynamic disciplines. Explore the unexpected connections, the physical and mental strength gained, and the profound insights discovered while navigating climbing and the sport of powerlifting.

Look out for the special announcement at the end!

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In this episode, Dr. Natasha Barnes, your host and strength and rehab coach for climbers, discusses the importance of inseason strength training for climbers. Here are the key takeaways: 1️⃣ Maintain Performance: Many climbers neglect strength training once their season begins, but this can have detrimental effects on your strength levels. By incorporating inseason strength training, climbers can maintain their performance throughout the season, leading to easier climbing, better grip strength, and improved ability to handle falls and challenging moves. 2️⃣ Durability & Injury Risk Reduction: Strength and durability are crucial for athletes to stay injury-free and perform at their best. Research shows that strength training can reduce the risk of injury by up to 66%! By continuing strength training inseason, climbers can better withstand the demands of climbing and prevent breakdowns that limit availability and performance. 3️⃣ Prevent Detraining & Maintain Gains: Don't let your hard-earned gains disappear. By maintaining your strength training throughout the season, you can prevent detraining and avoid starting from square one in the next offseason. Inseason strength training ensures long-term development and continuous improvement as a climber. If you're looking for guidance on inseason strength training for climbers, Dr. Natasha Barnes has just launched an in-season strength training program in her app. This program provides personalized programming, auto-regulation techniques, and a community forum for support and learning. Strengthen your climbing game and be Strong AF all season long!
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In this episode, we'll be exploring the relationship between posture and muscle imbalances in climbers, and how it relates to pain and injury. We'll uncover some fascinating insights from recent studies that challenge traditional beliefs about posture and muscle imbalances. Do climbers need to do "antagonist" training? Do you really have a "bad" posture and is it a cause for concern? Should we be focusing on correcting posture to prevent injuries? Or are there other factors at play that we should be paying attention to? Be prepared to have your perspective on posture and muscle imbalances turned upside down. We'll be discussing the latest research findings, as well as sharing personal experiences and practical advice on how to approach training and injury prevention in climbing. Join me as we break down myths, explore the science, and empower you with knowledge to help you become stronger and injury-free. So get ready to challenge your preconceived notions about posture and muscle imbalances in this episode of the Strong AF Podcast! And don't forget, if you have any questions or suggestions, reach out to us. We'd love to hear from you. Let's dive in!

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Did you know that our minds have the power to reverse the effects of a powerful opioid? That's right, a drug that can numb our pain can also be counteracted by our own thoughts and beliefs. You're probably wondering, how is this possible?

It all comes down to the incredible complexity of how pain works and the intricate dance between our brains and bodies. Pain is not purely a physical sensation. It's a multifaceted experience rooted deep within our nervous system. And we're going to explore just how much control we have over this experience.
In this episode, Dr. Natasha Barnes dives into the world of pain science, pain management and injury recovery. From back pain to elbow sensitivity, Natasha provides insights, personal experiences, and expert advice on how to navigate the challenges of pain and injury.

Whether you're a climber or simply looking for ways to deal with pain, this episode will give you the tools and knowledge to reframe pain and work around it during training. Let's dive in!

[00:02:04] Injury is inevitable for athletes; normalize it.

[00:08:38] Powerful pain expectations reverse drug effects.

[00:12:50] Power of the mind affects opioid potency.

[00:17:35] Reframe pain, retrain response, address unhelpful thoughts.

[00:22:50] Use CBT techniques to create and "evidence sheet", challenge negative beliefs and cognitive distortions.

[00:23:43] Research suggests slap tears may not cause pain.

[00:30:48] Self efficacy in rehab leads to better pain outcomes.

[00:35:16] When to seek professional guidance.

[00:41:48] Exercise even directly after surgery improves outcomes.

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In this episode, we'll be discussing various strategies for warming up for your strength training session. Plus, we'll touch on the importance of using RPE (Rating of Perceived Exertion) to accurately gauge your effort level and adjust your training accordingly. So get ready to get warmed up and let's dive in!

RPE calculator

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Autoregulation is a game-changer when it comes to achieving optimal results in your workouts. It involves dynamically adjusting your training intensity based on your performance, rather than sticking to a rigid plan.

By using a subjective rating scale, known as the Rating of Perceived Exertion (RPE), you can select the appropriate training load to maximize your gains.

But why is autoregulation so important? Well, it's because strength and fatigue levels can vary from day to day. By autoregulating your training, you can adapt to your body's current state, ensuring that you're pushing yourself enough without risking burnout or injury. It's all about finding that sweet spot where you're challenging yourself, but not crossing the line into overexertion.

Today, we'll uncover the ins and outs of autoregulation and how it can revolutionize your training routine. We'll discuss the benefits of rest, the dangers of overshooting sets, and why going to failure isn't always necessary for strength gains.

Join us as we delve into the world of autoregulation and discover how this powerful tool can take your training to new heights. So grab your headphones, find a comfortable spot, and get ready for another episode of the Strong AF Podcast. Let's do this!

00:01:31 Adjusting training intensity based on performance fluctuations.

00:05:20 One rep max tests can be invalid. Basing training off of them is not ideal.

00:08:06 Auto regulate your training using various methods.

00:10:27 RPE: Perceived exertion for effective strength training.

00:26:40 Use RPE to gauge load accurately.

00:33:35 Standard warm-up improves consistency in training.

00:42:58 New programs launching soon

RPE is a valid and reliable way to measure training

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In today's episode, we dive deep into the world of programming for strength training, specifically tailored for climbers. Our host, Dr. Natasha Barnes, will take us through a narrative review that focuses on designing a time-efficient training program for climbers without sacrificing valuable climbing practice.

With the recognition that lack of time is a common barrier to effective strength training, Natasha explores the research on acute training variables, training techniques, warmup strategies, and the use of compound exercises in strength training.

But it doesn't stop there. Natasha will guide us through the essential components of designing a program, including exercises selection, set and rep guidelines, and the importance of progressive overload. We'll also uncover the American Physical Activity Guidelines and the NSCA recommendations to ensure we're setting our climbers up for success.

But it's not just about reps and sets—proper nutrition plays a vital role in achieving those strength training goals. Natasha will discuss the importance of increasing calorie intake, prioritizing protein and carbohydrates to build muscle mass, and how to avoid weight loss while adding more training to your program.

Join us as we explore the most effective exercises, debunk misconceptions, and unlock the secrets to maximizing strength training for climbing. Get ready to climb stronger and train smarter on this episode of the Strong AF Podcast!

00:02:15 Start simple, progress later, consider coach.

00:03:56 Simple strength training program guidelines for progress.

00:07:58 Increase calories for training, eat more.

00:11:36 Prioritize compound exercises, machines or free weights.

00:14:16 Training frequency is less important than volume.

00:18:07 Avoid lengthy warm ups; start light.

00:22:48 Criteria: compound movements, effective weight usage.

00:26:43 Effective movements maximize weight and range of motion.

00:34:21 The slot concept.

00:35:57 Supplemental and assistance exercises for strength training.

00:46:33 Exercise intensity. Going to failure every time is not necessary and can lead to excessive fatigue and hinder recovery.

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Powerlifting competition recap. We talk about:

• What powerlifting is
• How a powerlifting competition works
• My training for the powerlifting competition
• How the competition went for me

This probably won't be the MOST listened to episode but it was requested but listeners. Skip this one if you don't care about powerlifting. Next week we have an episode on strength training programming dropping so stay tuned!

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