• TBP 268: From Overtraining to Discipline & Efficiency – Coach Charlie Schreiber

  • Jul 24 2024
  • Duración: 1 h y 26 m
  • Podcast

TBP 268: From Overtraining to Discipline & Efficiency – Coach Charlie Schreiber

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  • Resumen

  • Charlie Schreiber is a climbing coach who runs Paradigm Climbing and works with all levels of athletes–including elite, competitive ones–from all over the world. He’s also a very strong boulderer, having sent up to V13 and continuously training to improve his own climbing.

    In this interview, we talked about a range of topics, including how he used to overtrain and how his climbing and physical well-being improved when he learned to be more efficient with his training. This concept permeates the rest of our talk, as it guides him as a coach to do the best job possible.

    Here’s what we talked about:
    • His experience as a youth coach
    • Overtraining vs. Disciplined Athlete
    • Training for an overhung crimpy boulder
    • Linear periodization vs logical progression
    • Case study of sport climbing’s 3-month training plan
    • How to know when you’re fully recovered
    • Why he has a coach himself
    • How he uses video analysis
    • How to have process goals vs outcome goals in training and climbing
    • How to access flow state
    • Making the tedious into the enjoyable and habit stacking
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