Ravioli Biceps is one of the best Moonboard climbers in the world, so I was pretty excited to have him on the show. In 2021 he did all 280 (and counting) benchmarks on the 2016 Moonboard set, climbing up to V13. In total, he has sent 3500 problems on the 2016 board. Just take that in for a sec…

His Instagram feed is a beta encyclopedia–for Moonboard enthusiasts and fans alike–of his latest Moonboard ascents. He’s one of the people who are consulted when making the decision about whether a boulder should become a “benchmark” and he’s also a prolific setter himself.

And he does all of this while working long hours every week. So I wanted to talk to him about how he approaches the Moonboard, how he trains for it, his mindset around it, and whether the board is the goal or if he’s training for something outside (or both).

I received a lot of questions from our audience for Ravioli, and we had a fun time going through all of those at the end of this interview!

Here’s what we talked about:

• Why he loves board climbing so much
• The problem with the 2019 set
• The feeling he gets from thousands of people doing his boulders
• Hardest boulders he’s done on the Moonboard
• How his board climbing translates to outdoor climbing
• Thoughts on each of the boards
• How often he climbs
• How he trains
• How he works climbing into his grueling work schedule
• His positive mindset and how he maintains it
• The book club he belongs to
• Why he’s called Ravioli Biceps
• His thoughts on height advantages on boards
• Who should NOT be climbing on boards

Find bonus content with Ravioli about his diet, traveling to Moonboard, and his message to climbers everywhere on the TrainingBeta Podcast Patreon page.

If you are a person who is maybe a little too intimately familiar with the term "wobbler," then this one is for you... 😉 This is the audio version of an article I wrote where I compare two similar climbs I did--a 5.13b in 2019 that I fully wobbled on, and a 5.13b I sent a few weeks ago that I fully enjoyed climbing on until then end.

I describe how I've evolved (slowly but surely) from wobbling through constant self-flagellation and shame... to enjoying pretty constant self-acknowledgment and fun in my climbing with the hope that you can get there, too.

Charlie Schreiber is a climbing coach who runs Paradigm Climbing and works with all levels of athletes–including elite, competitive ones–from all over the world. He’s also a very strong boulderer, having sent up to V13 and continuously training to improve his own climbing.

In this interview, we talked about a range of topics, including how he used to overtrain and how his climbing and physical well-being improved when he learned to be more efficient with his training. This concept permeates the rest of our talk, as it guides him as a coach to do the best job possible.

• His experience as a youth coach
• Overtraining vs. Disciplined Athlete
• Training for an overhung crimpy boulder
• Linear periodization vs logical progression
• Case study of sport climbing’s 3-month training plan
• How to know when you’re fully recovered
• Why he has a coach himself
• How he uses video analysis
• How to have process goals vs outcome goals in training and climbing
• How to access flow state
• Making the tedious into the enjoyable and habit stacking