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The History of Surfing
- Narrado por: Paul Boehmer
- Duración: 30 h y 17 m
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Resumen del Editor
Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw, a former professional surfer and editor of Surfing magazine, has crafted an unprecedented, definitive history of the sport and the culture it has spawned.
The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original. The obsessive nature of Warshaw's endeavor is matched only by the obsessive nature of surfers, who are brought to life in this book in many tales of daring, innovation, athletic achievement, and the offbeat personalities who have made surfing history happen.
"The world's most comprehensive chronicler of the surfing scene."—Andy Martin, The Independent
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- The Education of a Reluctant Businessman - Including 10 More Years of Business Unusual
- De: Yvon Chouinard, Naomi Klein
- Narrado por: Christopher Grove, Yvon Chouinard
- Duración: 7 h y 59 m
- Versión completa
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In his long-awaited memoir, Yvon Chouinard - legendary climber, businessman, environmentalist, and founder of Patagonia, Inc. - shares the persistence and courage that have gone into being head of one of the most respected and environmentally responsible companies on earth. From his youth as the son of a French Canadian blacksmith to the thrilling, ambitious climbing expeditions that inspired his innovative designs for the sport's equipment.
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Good presentation, though a little preachy
- De Jim Perkins en 05-25-17
De: Yvon Chouinard, y otros
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Waterman
- The Life and Times of Duke Kahanamoku
- De: David Davis
- Narrado por: Aaron Killian
- Duración: 11 h y 13 m
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Waterman is the first comprehensive biography of Duke Kahanamoku (1890-1968): swimmer, surfer, Olympic gold medalist, Hawaiian icon, waterman.
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Outstanding
- De Chris en 10-07-18
De: David Davis
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Beyond the Mountain
- De: Steve House, Reinhold Messner - foreword
- Narrado por: Steve House
- Duración: 8 h y 56 m
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What does it take to be one of the world's best high-altitude mountain climbers? A lot of fundraising; traveling in some of the world's most dangerous countries; enduring cold bivouacs, searing lungs, and a cloudy mind when you can least afford one. It means learning the hard lessons the mountains teach. Steve House built his reputation on ascents throughout the Alps, Canada, Alaska, the Karakoram, and the Himalaya that have expanded possibilities of style, speed, and difficulty.
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A life-changing book
- De barbudo en 05-02-18
De: Steve House, y otros
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A Brief History of Surfing
- De: Matt Warshaw
- Narrado por: James Patrick Cronin
- Duración: 3 h y 9 m
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Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet, as evidenced by The History of Surfing, Warshaw's definitive take on the sport. Now he has honed that book into an abridged and excerpted edition for surfers everywhere. Each spread features a micro essay alongside an image capturing a slice of surf history, from Kelly Slater and the invention of the thruster to shark attacks and localism. A Brief History of Surfing deftly defines surf culture in an entertaining and irresistible volume with wide appeal.
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Mixed Feelings
- De Doug en 09-24-21
De: Matt Warshaw
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Barbarian Days
- A Surfing Life
- De: William Finnegan
- Narrado por: William Finnegan
- Duración: 18 h y 8 m
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Pulitzer Prize, Biography, 2016. Barbarian Days is William Finnegan's memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life.
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What a Jerk.
- De ML Sadler en 03-06-17
De: William Finnegan
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The Surfing Lesson
- De: Elin Hilderbrand
- Narrado por: Therese Plummer
- Duración: 1 h y 22 m
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Margot's reservoir of romantic feelings for her husband, Drum, is running dry. But while the family is on vacation in Nantucket, Margot finds an opportunity to potentially regain her romantic love for her husband - in the form of Hadley Axelram, his ex-girlfriend. She is counting on jealousy as a relationship defibrillator. But after forcing her surfing-god husband to make plans for a surfing lesson with Hadley and her son, Margot is left to reminisce about the summer she fell in love with Drum, and the unexpected blossoming of their relationship. When she sees Drum and Hadley spending time together, will the spark reignite - and will her marriage be saved?
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This was NOT The Surfing Lesson!
- De William McKinley en 06-06-18
De: Elin Hilderbrand
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Let My People Go Surfing
- The Education of a Reluctant Businessman - Including 10 More Years of Business Unusual
- De: Yvon Chouinard, Naomi Klein
- Narrado por: Christopher Grove, Yvon Chouinard
- Duración: 7 h y 59 m
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In his long-awaited memoir, Yvon Chouinard - legendary climber, businessman, environmentalist, and founder of Patagonia, Inc. - shares the persistence and courage that have gone into being head of one of the most respected and environmentally responsible companies on earth. From his youth as the son of a French Canadian blacksmith to the thrilling, ambitious climbing expeditions that inspired his innovative designs for the sport's equipment.
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Good presentation, though a little preachy
- De Jim Perkins en 05-25-17
De: Yvon Chouinard, y otros
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Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell
- A True Story of Violence, Corruption, and the Soul of Surfing
- De: Chas Smith, Joan Jett - foreword
- Narrado por: Chas Smith
- Duración: 7 h y 12 m
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Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell is surfer and former war reporter Chas Smith's wild and unflinching look at the high-stakes world of surfing on Oahu's North Shore - a riveting, often humorous, account of beauty, greed, danger, and crime. For two months every winter, when Pacific storms make landfall, swarms of mainlanders, Brazilians, Australians, and Europeans flock to Oahu's paradisiacal North Shore for surfing's Triple Crown competition. Smith reveals how this influx transforms a sleepy strip of coast into a lawless, violent, drug-addled, and adrenaline-soaked mecca.
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Chas Smith is a jerk, but he writes well
- De Kevin Degnan en 12-15-22
De: Chas Smith, y otros
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Pipe Dreams
- A Surfer's Journey
- De: Kelly Slater
- Narrado por: Todd Haberkorn
- Duración: 8 h y 26 m
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Eleven-time world surfing champion, actor, and American heartthrob Kelly Slater tells his inspiring story of triumph over adversity. From Beach Blanket Bingo to Baywatch to Blue Crush, surfing has fascinated people for years, and Kelly Slater is the sport’s hottest star. He has won more world championships than any other competitor, and he continues to change peoples’ minds about what can and can’t be done on a surfboard.
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Not about surfing
- De Deborah McCandless en 07-31-21
De: Kelly Slater
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The Surfer and the Sage
- A Guide to Survive and Ride Life's Waves
- De: Noah benShea, Shaun Tomson
- Narrado por: Noah benShea, Shaun Tomson
- Duración: 2 h y 15 m
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Sometimes life’s waves knock you down; other times, life might seem to sweep you along powerless. But the choice is always yours to swim back up to the light. Legendary world champion surfer Shaun Tomson and international best-selling poet-philosopher Noah benShea join forces to offer you insight on a path of purpose, hope, and faith. This timely guidebook alternates between Tomson’s inspiring experiential essays and benShea’s spiritual commentary that lift the soul.
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Inspirational
- De Kindle Customer en 07-18-24
De: Noah benShea, y otros
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Making Mavericks
- The Memoir of a Surfing Legend
- De: Frosty Hesson, Ian Spiegelman
- Narrado por: Gary Dikeos
- Duración: 7 h y 45 m
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When Richard “Frosty” Hesson was first approached by a young Jay Moriarty in 1990, the skinny kid with a sparkle in his eye only wanted one thing from the icon: His help in becoming a better surfer. Hesson, one of the first to conquer the huge waves off northern California known as Mavericks, recognized that the kid “had a vision.” Jay quickly demonstrated a resolve that reminded Frosty of his younger self, pursuing his goal with a seriousness far beyond his years. His attitude and work ethic earned Frosty’s respect and, eventually, his friendship.
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Worst audiobook I’ve listened to - narrated by a pre-pubescent teenage robot
- De Nick en 04-26-18
De: Frosty Hesson, y otros
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Cocaine + Surfing
- A Sordid History of Surfing's Greatest Love Affair
- De: Chas Smith
- Narrado por: Tom Pile
- Duración: 7 h y 19 m
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It is likely not terribly surprising that surfers like to party. The 1960-'70s image, bolstered by Tom Wolfe and Big Wednesday, was one of mild outlaws. Tanned boys who refused to grow up, spending their days drinking beer and smoking joints on the beach in between mindless hours in the water. As the surf brands accidentally morphed into a multimillion- then multibillion-dollar industry beginning in the 1980s, however, the derelict portrait began to harm business.
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Narrator is a joke caricature of what the public t
- De Kyle Douglas en 01-13-19
De: Chas Smith
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Liferider
- Heart, Body, Soul, and Life Beyond the Ocean
- De: Laird Hamilton, Julian Borra
- Narrado por: Elijah Allan-Blitz, Julian Borra, Gabrielle Reece
- Duración: 6 h y 32 m
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Millions of us increasingly seek happiness in fads and self-help books, reaching upward every day toward some enlightened state that we wish to attain. Surfing icon Laird Hamilton is more intent on looking inward and appreciating the brilliant creatures we already are. In Liferider, Laird uses five key pillars - Death & Fear, Heart, Body, Soul, and Everything Is Connected - to illustrate his unique worldview and life practices. This is Laird Hamilton in his own words - raw, honest, and unvarnished - on topics he has rarely explored before.
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Nothing Earth Shattering
- De Deanmc en 03-27-19
De: Laird Hamilton, y otros