This week on Ageless Athlete, we're joined by a true climbing icon: Eric Hörst. Eric's not just a world-renowned climber, author, and coach—he's a pioneer who revolutionized climbing training and nutrition, inspiring generations of climbers to reach new heights.

We'll journey back to the 80s, a time when climbing was a niche sport with limited resources. Eric was a trailblazer, experimenting with techniques and philosophies that transformed the way we train. He shared his insights through ground-breaking books and articles, helping climbers everywhere push their limits.

But Eric's influence extends far beyond the climbing world. He's a devoted father who raised a family of passionate climbers, demonstrating that a love for adventure and the outdoors can be passed down through generations.

This episode is a treasure trove of wisdom. We'll uncover the secrets to Eric's own approach to aging and staying in the game, his insights on balancing a demanding life with his passion for climbing, and how to make the most of training for longevity and well-being. Listen for:

Raising a Climbing Family: How to cultivate a love for climbing in your children without pushing them too hard.

Selecting a Climbing Coach: Eric breaks down the key factors to consider when choosing a climbing coach, whether you're a beginner or a seasoned climber.

The Best Training Board for You: Eric offers his expert opinion on the pros and cons of various training boards, including the Moon Board, Kilter Board, and his own personal favorite.

The Power of Saunas and Cold Baths: Eric discusses the benefits of both saunas and cold baths for recovery and injury prevention. He emphasizes that using these modalities effectively requires understanding the nuances and the science behind each approach.

Intermittent Fasting for Athletes: Eric shares his personal experience with intermittent fasting and explains why he doesn't recommend it for serious athletes.

Nutrition is Key: Eric emphasizes that a whole food diet is the foundation of any good nutrition plan, but even the most well-designed diet can have some deficiencies. He advocates for regular blood work to track vital markers, especially as we age. He stresses the importance of getting enough protein, essential minerals, and micronutrients to optimize performance, recovery, and overall health.

Beyond the Grades: Eric shares his perspective on climbing goals and how they evolve with age. He believes that focusing on the experience and joy of climbing, rather than solely on achieving specific grades, is crucial for long-term happiness and fulfillment.

Eric's Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/eric_horst/?hl=en

Training For Climbing: https://trainingforclimbing.com/

PhysiVantage Nutrition: https://physivantage.com/

If you've enjoyed the show, please drop a quick review or rating on Spotify or Apple. It helps reach more listeners. I thank you mucho! 💜

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“The mountain always show you how far you can go, and how far you are allowed to go, because biggest success will be always not to reach the summit, to come back alive from expedition.”🏔️ 🌟💪🏾

Thomas Huber, a legendary alpinist and one half of the iconic Huber brothers is a prolific first ascensionist over of the world’s most formidable big walls, including the Ogre, Cerro Torre, and the elusive Latok 1. He’s also made his mark on Yosemite Valley, where he and his brother Alex became part of the legendary “Stone Monkey” community, pioneering some of the most iconic routes on El Capitan. At almost 60, he’s still strong and was on his way to the Karakoram in Pakistan when we recorded this podcast.

Listen in for surprising insights into his relationship with risk, his approach to training and recovery, and the profound impact of his experiences on his perspective on life, culture, and the planet. He's also received numerous awards recognizing his accomplishments and his dedication to the sport, including the Piolet d'Or, arguably the biggest honor in alpinism, as well as recognition from the American Alpine Club for his rescue efforts on Cerro Torre. 🏆

Thomas just wrote this amazing book, Freiheit: Freedom In The Mountains, chronicling his adventures! Buy it with this link and use code HUBERBUAM for a 15% discount! 🙌🏽

Tune in for:

• Finding Freedom and Purpose: Thomas shares how he overcame a childhood fear of the mountains, fueled by his father’s climbing accident, to find freedom and purpose in the natural world. 🧗‍♂️🏔️
  
  
• Overcoming Setbacks and Embracing Resilience: Thomas discusses his journey to overcome injuries and setbacks, reminding us that the human spirit is capable of enduring incredible challenges. 💪
  
  
• The Beauty and Power of the Mountains: He also discusses how the experience of climbing has shaped his understanding of the world, both physically and spiritually. 🏔️🙏
  
  
• Embracing Global Perspectives: Thomas describes his incredible adventures and interactions with diverse cultures across the Himalayas, and other corners of the globe, emphasizing the importance of understanding and connection across different backgrounds. 🌎🤝

References:

• Thomas Huber's book, Freiheit: https://www.diangelopublications.com/shop/p/freiheit
• The Huber brothers: https://huberbuam.de/en/home.html

If you've enjoyed the show, please drop a quick review or rating on Spotify or Apple. It helps reach more listeners. I thank you mucho! 💜

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I've been reading Matt Samet's climbing and adventure writing since I started climbing myself in 2004 and am thrilled to be able to bring Matt to the show! Matt shares his journey of nearly four decades in the climbing world, offering insights into his experiences and the lessons he's learned along the way. From his perspective on climbing journalism to his honest discussion about overcoming addiction, Matt's story is one of courage, passion, and balance. Whether you're a climber or simply someone interested in the mental and physical resilience of athletes, this episode is packed! Hear of:

• 🏔️ Matt's Longevity in Climbing: Discover how Matt has sustained his climbing prowess for nearly 40 years and what keeps him motivated and passionate about the sport.
• 📝 Climbing Journalism: Gain insights into the world of outdoor journalism from one of its most respected voices, and understand how storytelling has shaped the climbing community.
• 🧘‍♂️ Balancing Physical and Mental Health: Learn Matt's strategies for maintaining mental and physical health, essential for anyone looking to achieve longevity in their own athletic pursuits.
• 💪 Overcoming Personal Battles: Hear Matt's powerful and motivational journey of overcoming addiction and finding a path to recovery, offering hope and inspiration to anyone facing similar challenges.
• 🤯 Surprising Insights: From mindfulness practices to the importance of community in climbing, discover the surprising lessons that Matt shared during our conversation.
  
  
• Matt Samet's Work in Climbing Journalism:
  • Climbing Magazine
  • Rock and Ice
• Matt Samet's Book:
  • Death Grip: A Climber's Escape from Benzo Madness

Follow Matt Samet:

• Instagram

If you've enjoyed the show, please drop a quick review or rating on Spotify or Apple. It helps reach more listeners. I thank you mucho! 💜

🟢 Spotify

🎵Apple Music

▶️ YouTube

📸Instagram

💧Substack Blog