Colin Duffy is a 2x Olympian, 3x World Cup winner, and V16 boulderer from Colorado. We talked about puzzles, studying applied math, early competitions, joining Team ABC, getting 70th in his first open event, learning how to lose gracefully, qualifying and competing in Tokyo, how the Olympic scoring has changed, his strategy for Paris, future outdoor rock climbing goals, and much more!

Watch the Video Interview of this episode:

EP 231: Colin Duffy — Uncut Video

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/colin-duffy

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:25) – Puzzles & applied math

(00:06:32) – Mom & dad

(00:07:29) – Early comps & Team ABC

(00:11:22) – Tokyo Olympics

(00:17:15) – Strategy & scoring

(00:20:00) – The format for Paris

(00:25:00) – The World Championships in Switzerland

(00:28:05) – Youth comps

(00:30:41) – Clutch mentality

(00:33:28) – Keeping sport & life separate

(00:35:53) – Gap semester & training in Europe

(00:41:24) – 360 Paddle Dyno

(00:43:52) – Coordination

(00:49:13) – Lead training

(00:52:22) – Comp grades

(00:57:12) – Comp boulders that haunt him

(01:01:02) – Learning how to lose

(01:04:58) – His first open comp

(01:08:06) – Putting on muscle

(01:16:18) – Letting off steam

(01:18:31) – The Grand Hustle V13

(01:20:24) – Bookkeeping V16

(01:22:22) – Outdoor goals

(01:30:47) – Rapid fire questions

(01:47:45) – Wrap up

Emma Hunt is the US speed climbing record holder and will compete in the Paris Olympics. We talked about her intro to speed climbing, how strong you have to be for speed climbing, speed training, how speed shoes compare to other climbing shoes, her mental game and strategy in comps, prejudice against speed in the climbing world, whether the speed route will ever change, why speed is cool, and much more!

Watch the Video Interview of this episode:

EP 230: Emma Hunt — Uncut Video

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The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/emma-hunt

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:50) – Emma’s intro to climbing & speed

(00:04:08) – “I just wanna go fast.”

(00:06:48) – Keeping the fire lit

(00:09:28) – Beta changes

(00:12:08) – The Start, Dyno, and Top

(00:13:10) – Speed nerds

(00:16:19) – A rock climber first

(00:18:10) – Post-Olympic plans

(00:20:41) – How strong are speed climbers?

(00:23:25) – How speed climbers train

(00:28:42) – Training sections of the speed route

(00:30:14) – Off-the-wall training

(00:31:56) – Her coaches

(00:35:06) – Speed shoes

(00:44:59) – Other sports

(00:46:27) – Rock climbing as a kid

(00:48:27) – What makes Emma so good at speed

(00:49:58) – Pre-race rituals

(00:51:36) – Speed mental game

(00:56:37) – Olympic vs. World Cup format

(00:59:06) – Seeds & sides

(01:00:39) – Strategy

(01:05:01) – Riding waves

(01:11:28) – More about the Olympic format

(01:13:18) – Speed prejudice & Toyko combined format

(01:27:51) – Future Bouldering & Lead comps

(01:29:20) – Speed climbing in the mainstream

(01:35:22) – We celebrate gold

(01:40:39) – Barriers to speed

(01:42:30) – Emma’s fastest time & goals

(01:44:49) – Will the speed route ever change?

(01:51:56) – 50-year-old goals

(01:53:45) – Rapid fire questions

(02:07:51) – Speed is cool

Shauna Coxsey is the most successful competition climber in the UK and the first British woman to climb V12, V13, and V14. We talked about becoming a mom, sitting in and sharing our emotions, human nature and the joy of climbing, inspiration vs. aspiration, motivation vs. commitment, competing in Tokyo, retiring from comps, sending Hazel Grace V14 in terrible conditions, pushing for her V15 goal as a mom, and much more!

Watch the Video Interview of this episode:

EP 229: Shauna Coxsey — Uncut Video

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/shauna-coxsey

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:30) – Frankie

(00:03:58) – Becoming a mom

(00:12:48) – Sit in and share emotions

(00:15:09) – Parenting

(00:20:15) – Support network

(00:22:06) – Shauna’s upbringing

(00:23:10) – Catherine Destivelle

(00:26:16) – The joy of climbing

(00:31:16) – Human nature

(00:34:22) – Her first big competition

(00:37:34) – Being raised by her sister

(00:40:49) – Protecting passion in kids

(00:47:54) – Frankie’s Nany, Arona

(00:52:10) – As honest as her vulnerability allows

(00:55:13) – Inspiration vs. aspiration

(00:58:34) – Motivation vs. commitment

(01:01:38) – Her proudest achievement

(01:04:12) – Hazel Grace 8B+/V14

(01:05:42) – Coming back after pregnancy

(01:12:13) – Wanting to look and feel strong again

(01:17:52) – Hips, butt, & YouTube tips

(01:24:02) – Commentating

(01:28:17) – Tokyo

(01:31:31) – 50 best 7s

(01:34:32) – Pushing for goals as a mom

(01:41:10) – The magic of being here

(01:43:19) – Any 8C/V15 goals?

(01:47:38) – Wrap up

Josh Hadley is a leading flexibility coach in climbing and the face behind the Lattice YouTube Channel. I’ve struggled with stretching routines over the years, and this episode completely changed my flexibility training. In this episode, Josh shares his top 4 stretches for inflexible climbers and introduces key concepts like chasing horizontal, weighted stretching, tempo, contract and relax, reducing friction, best times to stretch, and more. We also covered his recent CARCing experiment and other topics. Enjoy!

Flex Master Discount:

Use code NUGGET20 to get 20% off the Flex Master Bundle

latticetraining.com/product/flex-master-bundle-stretching-tools

Watch the Video Interview of this episode:

EP 228: Josh Hadley — Uncut Video

Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!

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PhysiVantage SUMMER SPECIAL!

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Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!

The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!

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Use this link for 10% off your first month!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/josh-hadley

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:03:59) – CARCing

(00:10:38) – Unstructured training

(00:12:13) – How Josh became the flexibility guy

(00:17:47) – Bringing critical force testing to Lattice

(00:25:25) – Flexibility assessments

(00:32:14) – Abduction

(00:32:44) – Buy in for flexibility training

(00:41:47) – How often do you need to train flexibility

(00:44:19) – The #1 flexibility exercise for boulderers (pancake)

(00:47:57) – Weighted & PNF stretching

(00:53:36) – Josh’s flexibility progress

(00:59:40) – Morphology limitations

(01:03:11) – Standing Pancake

(01:08:56) – Chasing horizontal

(01:13:43) – Tasking & motivation

(01:16:40) – Pancake stance width

(01:18:11) – Progressing the weight & tempo stretching

(01:24:51) – Do you have to warm up for flexibility training?

(01:27:40) – Pancake protocol

(01:30:06) – How Josh builds a flexibility session

(01:34:11) – Mobility vs. flexibility

(01:39:58) – Calve stretching

(01:46:01) – 4 stretches for inflexible climbers

(01:52:24) – Reducing friction

(01:55:00) – Stretching doesn’t have to look like climbing

(01:56:57) – PNF or contract-relax stretching

(02:00:57) – Best times to stretch

(02:04:41) – Breathing

(02:07:14) – When to switch to maintenance

(02:11:40) – What running does to your flexibility

(02:12:54) – Josh’s climbing & BJJ

(02:19:17) – The impact of flexibility on Josh’s climbing

(02:22:07) – Josh’s final advice

(02:25:32) – YouTube experimenting

(02:27:49) – Wrap up

How are granite climbing holds made? Are there benefits to training on rock? In this episode, I am joined by Mads Bulow Duus and Pawel Rogowski from Nature Climbing. We go behind the scenes on the origin story of their brand, the craftsmanship behind their beautiful products, how to build a successful brand, training and skin conditioning on granite hangboards, the future of climbing holds, and much more!

Use Code ‘NUGGET’ for 20% Off ANY Nature Climbing Products! ▶︎ https://natureclimbing.com/

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nature-climbing

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:08) – Banter

(00:05:02) – My first experience with Nature holds

(00:08:13) – Glass blowing & Nature’s origin story

(00:10:56) – Early holds

(00:12:28) – Mads’ climbing background

(00:16:28) – Pawel’s marketing background

(00:25:32) – How Mads & Pawel connected

(00:27:15) – Mads’ dream

(00:28:32) – Pawel’s career pivot

(00:37:06) – Fixing the basics

(00:43:51) – Scaling a handcrafted business

(00:52:23) – Sustainability & respect

(00:55:51) – Buying holds

(00:58:33) – Who Nature is for

(01:06:53) – Developing new products

(01:09:27) – The Nature Circuit

(01:10:48) – World Cup routes

(01:12:43) – Their vision for Nature

(01:17:56) – Their dream lifestyles

(01:23:00) – Proudest of

(01:28:42) – Elevator pitch

(01:29:54) – Training on granite

(01:33:39) – Discount code

Justen Sjong (The Climbing Sensei) is a world-class climber and coach who specializes in technique and mental game. This episode is a technique masterclass. We talk about the four stages of technique, how to practice any new skill, how to send faster, his goal to climb 9a before 60, and Justen coaches me on how to float on the wall using his drop-drive-stop method.

Watch the Video Interview of this episode:

EP 226: Justen Sjong — Uncut Video

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Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order!

The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!

betterhelp.com/NUGGET

Use this link for 10% off your first month!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/justen-sjong

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:03:25) – Justen’s climbing background

(00:07:27) – Fear and anxiety

(00:11:30) – Some of Justen’s hardest routes

(00:14:55) – Defining “technique”

(00:18:05) – Defining “effective” & “efficient”

(00:21:14) – Reflection & confidence

(00:26:22) – Our three batteries

(00:27:24) – Four Stages of Technique: Balance, Thought, Movement, & Rate

(00:43:06) – Diving into a specific technique

(00:50:48) – Drop, Drive, Stop

(01:02:00) – How to practice Drop, Drive, Stop

(01:11:44) – Structuring practice

(01:14:28) – Pro Tip for Drop, Drive, Stop

(01:16:48) – Alex Puccio’s posture

(01:19:17) – Getting into the moment

(01:21:00) – Three questions

(01:23:45) – Shifting from thinking to feeling

(01:30:36) – How to practice ANY technique

(01:35:47) – Sending things faster

(01:44:57) – The ragged edge & perfect repeats

(01:50:43) – Board climbers

(01:54:06) – Watching & noticing

(01:57:19) – Retiring after ‘Magic Mushroom’

(02:01:13) – Justen’s big goal

(02:03:29) – What he is working on in his climbing

(02:07:47) – Closing questions & nuggets

(02:31:17) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

In this episode, I crack open a beer with Tony Bell and David Bress, the two founders of Revival Climbing Coalition. The two of them installed my dream home wall in 2.5 hours and I was blown away by the craftsmanship and elegance of the design. We talked about their backgrounds, how they bootstrapped a climbing wall business, what sets their products apart, the biggest surprises they faced, sustainability challenges, future products and innovations, and more!

Revival’s Adjustable Climbing Walls:

revivalclimbing.com/adjustable-climbing-wall

Revival’s Landing Systems:

revivalclimbing.com/custom-mats

revivalclimbing.com/standard-mats

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/revival-climbing-coalition

Nuggets:

00:00:00 – Intro

00:01:45 – Breakfast banter

00:04:06 – David’s background

00:09:06 – Mount Moran

00:13:09 – Tony’s background

00:16:24 – Getting into the climbing wall industry

00:21:09 – The birth of Revival Climbing Coalition

00:25:00 – What sets Revival apart

00:33:01 – The cost of the wall

00:36:45 – The board

00:39:10 – Turkeys

00:40:25 – Bootstrapping and outsourcing

00:45:12 – Biggest surprises

00:47:37 – What sets their board apart

00:52:49 – Engineered lumber

00:56:38 – Sustainability

01:00:36 – Ease of installation

01:02:38 – Gym partners and shipping

01:04:40 – The future of Revival

01:08:45 – More about landing systems

01:09:50 – What’s next for Revival

01:13:31 – Wrap up

Jana Švecová is a professional rock climber from the Czech Republic who has emerged as one of the top female boulderers in the world. We talked about her upbringing and her early success in competitions, her pivot to outdoor bouldering, her inspiration for choosing ‘Terranova’ 8C+/V16 as a project, making the first ascent of ‘Nova’ 8C/V15, using her finger injury as an opportunity, current training, and much more!

Watch the Video Interview of this episode:

EP 224: Jana Švecová — Uncut Video

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PhysiVantage SUMMER SPECIAL!

physivantage.com/discount/NUG20

Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!

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crimpd.com

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Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order!

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jana-svecova

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:44) – Jana’s upbringing

(00:07:18) – Quitting her job to climb full time

(00:08:38) – What inspires her about ‘Terranova’ 8C+/V16

(00:12:39) – Climbing has it all

(00:18:08) – A natural talent

(00:22:20) – Discovering outdoor bouldering

(00:25:57) – Childhood best friends

(00:30:04) – Sharing successes

(00:33:04) – ‘Nova’ 8C/V15

(00:47:56) – The frustrations of projecting

(00:50:46) – The next steps for ‘Terranova’

(00:54:02) – Using her finger injury as an opportunity

(00:58:22) – Working with her coach

(01:03:23) – Improving her shoulder strength

(01:08:09) – How her training has changed

(01:11:58) – Building a climbing wall in a second apartment

(01:15:18) – Building my own home wall

(01:17:55) – Training for ‘Terranova’

(01:30:02) – Motivation and side projects

(01:35:18) – Self-belief

(01:37:46) – Coordination and muscle memory

(01:40:37) – Harry Potter museum

(01:43:21) – Hand tattoos

(01:44:39) – Favorite post-climbing food

(01:46:15) – Ultimate achievement

(01:48:51) – Best decision

(01:53:17) – Bug snacks

(01:56:00) – Happiest moment

(01:58:58) – Silver linings

(02:03:11) – Proudest of

(02:06:47) – Favorite rock type

(02:07:22) – Go-to climbing shoes

(02:11:27) – Wrap up