There are a million of them out there, but not all finger strength protocols transfer well to climbing, or are time efficient, or are even possible with the tools we have. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss their favorite protocols, both that they use themselves and in programming for their clients.

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🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Our Finger Strength Resource Page

Eva Lopez | The Best Hangboard Protocol

Breaking Beta | Is This the Best Hangboard Protocol?

Breaking Beta | Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance?

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🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

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📚 CHAPTERS

(00:00) Intro and Topic Explanation

(20:25) Long Duration Finger Health Hangs

(22:15) Multi-Grip Block Workout

(28:07) Eva Lopez MAW and MED Hangs

(33:27) Too Easy to Fail (2 Hangs per Session)

(38:32) Offset Hangs or Pulls on a Hangboard or Bouldering Wall

(44:07) 6:10 Repeaters

(56:28) 5:55 Three Finger Alternating Hangs

(1:02:12) Three Max Hangs of 6 Seconds Each

(1:08:43) Outro

Be the first to learn about about the new Movement Assessment Tool & Mini-Course!

In Part 2 of this special Q & A episode, Kris fields questions from YOU! Sent in from our YouTube subscribers, training clients, and more, Kris digs into what you want to know when it comes to climbing movement.

This is Part 2 so be sure to check out Part 1, if you haven't already!

_________________________

🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

The Bouldering Process | Flight of the Antelope (V10)

The Process of Dealing with Fear While Bouldering

CONFLICTED | Boards as Movement Assessment Tools

The #1 Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves

Contrast Warm Up (aka Sloth Monkeys) Drill

Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast Drill

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

_________________________

📚 CHAPTERS

(00:00) Intro (03:06) Finding the Best Beta (09:12) Strength vs. Movement (09:55) Heel Hooks vs. Toe Hooks (11:05) The Mystery of Toe Hooks (18:08) How to Coach Toe Hooks (22:07) How to Know You’re Improving (27:56) The Best Level to Learn Movement (28:58) How to Know What to Work On (31:00) How to Improve Pacing and Rhythm (36:37) How to Improve at Scary Moves (41:24) Movement to Focus On Pre-Trip (43:46) False Start Hover Drill (48:35) Movement Work After a Break From Climbing (51:40) We’re Thinking of Movement Backwards (55:11) Outro

You’re scrolling Instagram or YouTube or listening to the newest podcast episodes, and now, just today, you’ve got three new finger strength protocols to try, you learned that your footwork needs overhauling, you’re warming up all wrong, and you have to buy a few new training devices.

And you have to implement it all right now, because, well, you just do. It doesn’t matter that you have no idea if anything has worked – or will work – because the next thing could be THE thing, and you’ve been plateaued and need to level up right now.

You can keep at it. Collect it all.

But...

Read the rest on the blog!

Watch the video on YouTube!

_________________________

🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Taped Tips | The Secret to Hard Moves that Most Climbers Are Missing

Taped Tips | The Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves

Taped Tips | Climb Taller AND Smaller

Our Movement Practice Resource Page

The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become A Better Climber – Use code POD at checkout for 20% off!

Find the Proven Plan That Fits You

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.